[ad_1]
Photo: Nancy Dojaka; Chopova Lowena; 16 Arlington; Ben Broomfield
Ask anyone who pays attention to fashion, and they’ll tell you the same thing: London Fashion Week designers are consistently some of the season’s most experimental. Incubator spaces like Fashion East, as well as programs facilitated by retailers like Mech and Brown, provide funding and mentorship to young designers. The result: freedom to explore and play.
This season, female designers such as Molly Goddard, Nancy Dojaka and Chopova Lowena pushed the envelope, showcasing oversized silhouettes and bodies for the runway, putting women’s interests at the forefront of design. .
Photo: Chris Yates
Carolyn Vito made an important collection for women and girls. Growing up in Brazil, she often felt insecure about going to the beach. So in her collection, instead of conforming, she highlighted the areas she was told to cover up with sculpted silver frames. As her show notes read, “A bulging armpit, a fat hip, or the curve of a back pack became the subject of Vito’s radical sensual images. Model Alva Claire closed the show by showing off one hip in a stunning long black dress. It was glorious.
Photo: Courtesy of Chopova Lowena
Known for their viral kilt-like chain-mail dress, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena’s stunning designs pair in 2010. They were on full display for the first time since receiving the 2020 LVMH Award. But only if they caught on – they were models, pedaling faster than people could get them for an Instagram video. The duo paired their signature dresses with pleated knit dresses, printed blouses with cutouts and corsets, as well as new pieces like billowy printed dresses and cardigans.
Photo: Ben Broomfield
Molly Goddard reminded me that fashion can be a relief. This season, the designer, known for her flirty and elegant designs, made tulle dresses and skirts in neon and polka-dot prints. The finale was a huge white and tulle gown, big enough to wreak havoc on the artificial audience.
Photo: Courtesy of Di Petsa
De Petsa designer Dimitra Petsa, known for her signature “wetlook” (wet-look dresses and underwear), wants to make clothes for our growing bodies. “Our bodies change a lot,” she said. “And not only during pregnancy, swelling, weight gain.” This was top of mind as she designed stretchy fabric, pants with healing crystals woven into the chakra points, and a corset that opened for breastfeeding. The stunning collection, which included a dress printed with photos of ancient Greek pottery found in the Mediterranean, was a beautiful development of her earlier pieces.
Photo: Courtesy of Finished Works
Anna Jewbury of Completedworks has created a world of her own – interesting shapes in jewelry, ceramics, bowls and mugs – that I want to live in. Her latest jewelry collection is an extension of her popular pieces in the past. Like skinny earrings, with new materials like glue. She created new pieces like pearl earrings and sculptural silver pendants and necklaces that make me embrace the clutter around my neck.
Photo: Courtesy of Nancy Dojaka
Nancy Dojaka, who won the LVMH prize last year, proved she has range. Of course, the designer, who studied underwear at St. Martins, makes her signature variations, but this collection featured some glam silver miniskirts and cut-out party pants. (Plus Emily Ratajkowski walked in a stunning pink gown.)
Photo: Jason Lloyd Evans
Designed by Erdem Moralioglu and styled by Gabriela Carefa-Johnson, the Erdem collection is an example of how I would want to dress if I attended the Queen’s funeral. All the looks were like a corset top combined with a mid-length skirt, covered with a thin veil and decorated with black pants.
Photo: Victor Virgil/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Jonathan Anderson, who transformed Lowe’s, showed off his first namesake collection in years – a voluminous bubble dress, a wrap-like mini and an inverted sweater with suspenders. We love a set with a sense of humor.
Photo: Courtesy of 16Arlington
The 16Arlington Kikka bag – named after Kikka Cavenati, co-founder and partner of designer Marco Capaldo, who died suddenly last year – is clearly all the rage in London. Last season, Capaldo organized a moving tribute to Kika, and this set was no different. It featured embellished minis, snakeskin column dresses and beautifully tailored coats.
[ad_2]
Source link
