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Milan — Filippo Grazioli smiles as he talks simply about Missoni’s spring collection and poses for an exclusive preview at the brand’s Milan showroom.
His cheerful and friendly personality is reflected in his fun and youthful designs – no doubt in line with what he has allowed to reinvent the brand.
After his menswear debut last June, Grazioli will hold his first womenswear show for Missoni on Friday at Milan’s Bocconi University.
Light is a key focus for Grazioli’s collection, with colors separating like prisms. Grazioli works primarily in black and white, primary yellow, magenta and cyan, which he says are “the basis of any kind of miniature.” They add sparkle to many looks, like a magenta dress with shiny metal buttons on the side.
The designer is very respectful of Missoni’s history, but after his leisure collections were presented in June, Grazioli felt more daring and “fun” with the fall lineup.
For example, considering the relationship with the past but interpreting it for the future, it introduces some ambiguities. “He influenced me. [founders] Rosita and Ottavio Missoni were banned from showing in Florence after their 1967 collection. [as part of the Sala Bianca designers] Grazioli is supposed to be very shy. The incident was caused by Missonis decision to offer the collection on braless models because these arrived in the wrong color and exposed breasts under the clothes caused a stir at the time.
Fast forward, obviously no one will be on hand and in any case the collection is not vulgar at all, and the transparencies are very sophisticated.
Ottavio Missoni was born in Dubrovnik and was probably influenced by his summer vacation in Croatia, where the patriarch and his wife used to sail, Grazioli visited the past by reviving the use of buses in Rosita – he was amazed by the flames and zigzags of the product. Styles.
However, whether the designer uses Missoni’s codes and patterns, combining them with color-blocking details, or changing them as a single element on a dress and updating it with new weights and techniques – the brand’s craftsmanship is always evident.
Newness also comes from clingy and draped fabrics that add movement to body-hugging dresses and sexy pleated skirts.
Short or tall, the figure is straight, fitted and “body conscious,” says Grazioli, whose goals are to “enhance women’s bodies.”
A graduate of Milan’s Istituto Europe d’Design, who joined Missoni in March, he developed his career in Paris. During his internship at Staff International, he met Martin Margiela and worked with the designer on women’s collections until 2013. In the year As Director of Collections at Givenchy. Grazioli followed Tisci to become runway collection director at Burberry.
The five-year plan, presented by CEO Livio Proli, who joined the company from Giorgio Armani Group in 2020 after Italian fund FSI took a 41.2 percent stake in the family’s ownership, is part of a change in creative direction at Missoni. Fashion house in 2018.
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