How an editor created an interesting fashion week wardrobe


“Secret” industry people like to confess to each other, before fashion week, they prepare an album of mirror selfies that they plan to wear every day. I do this every season, in every city I go to, and honestly, I don’t hide the practice very well. (I think Obsessive Style Calisthenics is more fun than any lie about “effortless dressing”.)

The process is practical in theory; It’s pressure to look a certain way. on. Guests decked out in trend can attract just as much attention as the runway, so let’s consider the implications of ending up in such a fussy ensemble. Does the need for novelty take away from a carefully thought out and carefully crafted wardrobe? Is this how Shein Haul was born?

Instead of giving up the childhood joy I get from wearing my silly clothes and taking my cute little photos, I figured this New York Fashion Week season would be a good time to adjust my mindset. A mapped wardrobe – and more.

Durability


Jacket and pants: Aeron; Bag: SC103; Shoes: Prada

Photos: Courtesy of Laura Reilly


Matching set: Miaou; Bag: APC; Shoes: Dubie


Clothing: Late Vintage; Bra: CUUP; Shoes: Vintage Miu Miu

An obvious place to start, given the industry’s sins, is the question of sustainability. Many brands openly claim or simply lie about “sustainable” environmental practices. Very few dedicate themselves to startups that require resourcing or intersectional workforce responsibilities.

For a look that moves beyond lip service, I’ve included pieces from a few key brands. Mirror Palace, a mostly made-to-order brand hosting its first runway show at NYFW this season, is constantly challenging itself to minimize its impact. Fabrics are almost entirely organic, all clothing is made locally in New York City, and the brand is consistently host to more values, from plus-size inclusion to anti-racism. New York party-girl-in-uniform Meow is also committed to sustainability. With great transparency, the label has mapped out its environmental and ethical production flow, taking into account renewable materials, dyes, packaging and social initiatives.

Silk Laundry, the Australian label whose scantily clad clothes were seen at a recent Soho pop-up brought to mind for NYFW, is another such name. His goals are specific and relative to his native Australia in terms of sustainability, reforestation and the protection of endangered species and flora, and he is on track for B Corp certification. Rent, a collection of one-of-a-kind pieces made from painstakingly crafted garments and scraps, also made their way into my closet this week by Budapest-based Eron and Dutch slow fashion label CAES.

Charity

When you go through your usual online shopping, it’s mind boggling that exchanging URLs can be the difference between thousands of dollars in donations to worthy causes. Ahead of fashion week, I met with Olivella, a retailer that turns 20% of its collections into a well-known NGO fighting poverty, disease and women’s injustice while protecting the environment and art.

Naturally, the site’s success hinges on its ability to move the product, and its merchandise mix of luxury and innovative brands seems to be achieving this. I’ve been able to wear looks from designers such as Ghani, Rodger, Mansur Gavriel, Dorothy Schumacher, Ususi’s sister, and more at labels like Fashion Week.

Visibility


Tank: soldout.nyc; Dress: Vintage Y ends soon; Bag: Remotely; Shoes: Maryam Nasir Zadeh

Photos: Courtesy of Laura Reilly


Vest: The row; Dress: Dry Van Noten; Bag: Mansur Gavriel; Shoes: Maison Margiela


Dress: Mirror Palace; Clutch: Vintage; Shoes: Vintage Giuseppe Zanotti

Another one I’ve worn before and am especially excited to show again this season is Bevza. Ukrainian businesses like Svitlana Bevza’s famous brand are now getting more than public support and visibility. Her pieces are truly stunning and one of the most worn by the audience every season—her knitted balaclava was outside the Spring Studio during the February shows, and I predict the sailor-themed SS22 pieces I’m drawn to wearing this brand at the show. Tuesday.

Long life

Perhaps the most important and achievable value in this list is a long life cycle. As an editor, many of the things I wear during fashion week are taken from designer and PR shows, and yes, I admit I bought a couple of things for the occasion. But the building blocks of many outfits are pieces I’ve owned over the years and wear season after season.

My trusty Maryam Nasir Zadeh Olympia wedges feature heavily in my planned wardrobe, as does a simple brass-clasp APC shoulder bag. My Soldout.nyc white tanks are an invaluable styling tool to have on hand, and my Sundar Bey oversized white button-down lends itself to a variety of looks.

The pieces I bought this week with the intention of wearing them are quality items that will last for years, if not decades: a luxurious The Row knit vest, an over-the-top crisp white t-shirt, and deceptively versatile electric blue Paris Georgia pants.

Proximity


Pants and bag: Gemsun; Above: Haus; Belt: Michelle Del Rio; Shoes: Balenciaga

Photos: Courtesy of Laura Reilly


Top: Acne Studios; Dress: Vintage Comme des Garcons Out soon, Bag: JWAnderson; Shoes: Fendi


Producer: Bevza; Bag: APC

Bring your friends close and share their brands. I’ve heard this topic before, but maintaining a healthy abundance of what your inner circles do is one of the most beautiful things a person can do. The crowded fashion landscape may be impossible for young brands to break into, but we have the power to make them heard; Family names are built from the ground up.

I’m especially lucky to be surrounded by talented people I can call my friends, and their creations are among my favorites to showcase at NYFW’s endless events and festivals. Gamesun’s wrap accessories are a mainstay, and the new ready-to-wear also brings joy to my wardrobe. Michelle Del Rio’s mysterious slim dress and talismanic belt make me feel happy; They are some of my most worn items. The house label’s athleisure-inspired pieces are wintertime staples that I now proudly start every outfit with. And Kolbo menswear is a steal even for my women’s wardrobe.





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