Hedi Slimane’s love of American youth culture has been a point of reference for his menswear creations over the years, and his latest spring 2023 men’s collection — infused with rock ‘n’ roll — was no exception.
American flag prints in blazers, artfully crafted faded jeans, oversize leather outerwear embellished with studs, fringe and allover sequins, with a few Elvis-worthy retro tuxedoes, were among the coolest examples of that American rocker style, with a touch of grunge that Slimane is known for.
For Dsquared2’s collection, the Americana trend was surf-inspired. “There’s enough bulls-t in the world, enough hate. We want to be as positive as possible, chilled down and more connected,” said Dsquared2 code designer Dan Caten about his menswear collection backstage after their show. That relaxed and chill attitude came through in a colorful collection that centered around American surfing culture, featuring inventive layering, floral-print clashes, a few ’70s retro references and an overall leisurely mood.
Junya Watanabe went for Americana too: “An adept serial collaborator fond of American workwear brands like Levi’s, Brooks Brothers and Carhartt, Junya Watanabe widened his list of dance partners even further for spring 2023 to the crème de la crème of American Pop artists” wrote international editor Miles Socha on his Junya Watanabe spring collection review. Roy Lichtenstein’s forlorn comic-strip females, Andy Warhol’s “Marilyn Monroe,” Keith Haring’s doodles and Jean-Michel Basquiat’s crowns and skull motifs were some of the embellishment details used throughout the collection. Consumer goods logos from Netflix, Coca-Cola and Honda were also present to reinforce the American mood of the offering.
Mike Amiri, one of the many American designers that descended over Paris Fashion Week, also brought the Americana trend to the forefront of his spring collection. “Amiri draws much inspiration from the archive of classic Americana that he keeps,” wrote Samantha Conti in her Amiri spring collection review.
The lineup featured great American sportswear pieces, such as featherlight suits, all paired with sneakers, silky basketball shorts and fitted baseball shirts. An array of artisanal patchwork varsity jackets, perforated leather tops to resemble athletic mesh and painterly tie-dye sweaters gave a sophisticated spin to the offering, while elevating the Americana trend to new heights.
Reese Cooper’s collaboration with Levi’s, Kenzo designer Nigo’s take on American college dress codes, and Rhude’s Rhuigi Villaseñor’s subversive take on preppy help give depth to the American-loving trend.