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The pre-pandemic fashion delirium is back.
After several Covid-stable seasons, Milan Fashion Week has returned to its pre-pandemic glory: packed seats, crowded streets and sidewalks packed with fashion enthusiasts seeking glimpses of stars and influencers.
After several epidemics of talk about how the fashion system needs to change – ie slow down – no matter how much traffic and chaos it brings, few can resist returning to the world as they know it.
This week’s runway shows close with the return of another Milan tradition: the Green Carpet Awards to recognize advances in sustainability.
Here are some highlights from Thursday’s mostly womenswear preview for next spring and winter during the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
Prada explores raw silk.
The latest Miucia Prada and Raf Simons collection explores the space between minimalism and luxury with clean silhouettes and transparent materials.
The collection begins with bodysuits with minimal cuts made from poplin shirts, in industrial colors such as gray and ivory. They are worn under box jackets and opera coats, and finally, a loose dress in fine silk and fine lace, suggestive of evening wear.
Prada said in the show notes: ‘The clothes are simple, without any unnecessary complexity. “Politically, theoretically, aesthetically, we’re drawn to these ideas again and again. The idea of directness.”
The picture was simple. Dresses are wrapped around the body, like bathing in a bath. A clear, tissue-y coat gave it a light feel. Naive applique flowers decorate handbags and jackets, sometimes with a fabric tail on the back.
Even with feminine touches, androgyny underlined the collection, especially in the form of Prada uniforms: jumpsuits, slim pants and jackets. Shoes were Mary Janes or bakery. Bags of the moment include Prada’s inverted triangle handbag and large totes in contrasting pink or lime.
“More than any other collection, this one is full of different perspectives. There’s a cinema mirror in the collection, there’s evidence of large, whole fragments,” Simons said.
Max Mara lost in thought
Max Mara’s painting evokes feminine modernity for next season, with fiery swimsuits and skirts cinching at the hips into a slinky skater movement. Volumes – also in box jackets and overcoats – are balanced on shoulder pads and crop tops.
Creative director Ian Griffiths took cues from 1930s female intellectuals on the French Riviera, citing photographer Jacques-Henri Lartguy’s muse and lover and architect Eileen Gray René Perl. There is a purposeful androgyny in the set, with David Bowie in loose 1980s trousers appearing on Griffith’s mood board.
They are looks that invite contemplation while offering unrestricted movement to a woman in need of intellectual pursuits.
Max Mara presented a neutral color scheme for next season with calming raw linens from gray to khaki, set in sun-drenched shades of yellow, green and blue, creating an ideal trio of baggy coats over swimwear. , complete with knitted bathing cap.
Suitcases are enough for a weekend getaway. Shoes are platform shoes. And hats feature oversized brims.
Moschino sighed
Jeremy Scott wanted to inject buoyancy into the global discourse. And it couldn’t have been more accurate with Moschino’s spring-summer 2023 collection, which included a swimming pool with more than just stunning tricks.
Plastic ring floats gave structure to the hemline, while the swimming pool became a tongue-in-cheek steal. Wind references were everywhere: from collars, bras, to shoes and even bags. Often the floats were part of the outfit, like puffed lapels on a black pant suit. Life-saving floats also got their due, as did head restraints and inflatable peplums.
Underneath it was a collection that took the summer seriously, lots of warm weather in blue or yellow, with white trim; Funky short dresses reminiscent of beach umbrellas, accented with drink floats like bracelets. And oft-overlooked bathing suits, here in bright cartoon prints to match a plastic jacket, hat and bag.
Scott says in the show notes that the references are a direct twist on the term “inflation”.
But beneath the breathless hijinks, there were also slinkier numbers.
A long black dress featured a lustrous cross-stitch studded with large red hearts, and a bright pink wrap cocktail dress was paired with curved flamingo heels. An ocean-blue embellished mermaid dress features two hip-hugging dolphins riding the waves, while a puffy swan heralds the drama of a Grecian white gown.
“Ultimately, it’s about offsetting the negative… even when the rest of the water is gray. That’s where the fun lies,” Moschino said in their memo.
The free spirit of Emporio Armani
For his youthful Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio Armani created looks that travel well, titling the new collection “In Passage”. The shadow of a Japanese torii gate in the background of the scene suggested a destination.
The collection was based on neutral and muted colors, with a calming movement created by pleats, beading, sequins and prints. Soft jackets gave a simple definition to summer wear, with loose trousers, usually gathered at the ankles. Diaphanous turtlenecks create beautiful jumpsuits worn over pants, or as skirts or even flowy. Elegant rolled up pants cut a modern silhouette with a crisp knit coat
Armani, 88, received a standing ovation at the end of the show.
Dsquared2 clash
Dsquared2’s Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Catton, unleashed a clash and scream of beach-meets-towns finery in a gorgeous Milanese palazzo.
“It’s a contrast. Never be predictable. So this is unknown to us. And the set is unpredictable, so two wrongs make a right, Dan Caton said after the show.
Designers chose the most transparent fabric to create summer layers: a blue lace jacket over a yellow printed skirt, with beach plaid tops. In the year
The twins redefined the teenage bikini, pairing a top with oversized swim trunks over white pants, for the ultimate surf look.
Makeup was restrained and cold, blue lips or green eyelids.
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