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After a truly historic week, London Fashion Week closed with a fitting tribute to Queen Elizabeth II as Richard Quinn presented his entire show in royal mourning clothes.
The first 18 looks sent down the runway were black widow’s weed, embellished with feathers and jewels and accessorized with heavy lace veils. Elegant and poignant, it seemed only fitting that the Queen, who was awarded the Queen Elizabeth II Fashion Awards for the first time in 2018, paid tribute to the passing of the monarch who fronted her first show.
Scroll through the gallery above for some of the best looks from London Fashion Week.
In his tear-jerking look, Quinn showed off his love of color and pattern with bright, ruffled mini-skirts that sat high around the ears, and were paired with chunky tights or tall boots. Fierce, modern and edgy, they rocked the colorful outfits that the Queen is so famous for.
At one point it looked as if London Fashion Week would never go on after the Queen’s death, but the event has gone ahead, albeit on a massive scale back. The designers had the presence of mind to present collections that managed to carefully manage respect and the utmost respect for London.
At the beginning of the week, Harris Reed presented a collection that shows exactly why the fashion collection is so popular. In a performance with Adam Lambert, who sings as part of a collaboration with rock band Queen, Reed’s show combines old-school glamour, with exaggerated shoulders, form-fitting dresses with mermaid headdresses and a wide brimmed hat, which dips below one eye.
At Edward Crutchley, a nautical-themed show featured a metallic fabric forming into circular shapes around his body, wearing a tiered dress in shimmering verte de gris and seashell pink. And, thanks to the platform shoes he wore underneath, he took on a towering, Poseidon-like quality.
JW Anderson brought his trademark subversive humor to the proceedings, sending an upside-down jumper as a dress, with a metal clothes hanger now around the model’s neck. Then came otherworldly shapes, such as a silver shift dress that ballooned around the waist.
Christopher Kane, too, explores a new direction, after which he looks at body paintings that are sprinkled with looks.
By Simone Rocha – whom the Old Bailey chose as her venue – menswear was presented in a very elegant show for the first time. Mixing parachute fabrics, webbing straps and netting as a cover was super cool and very tasty. The show was staged with curtains.
Erdem also pulled out all the stops, with a show that felt like stumbling upon the world’s greatest wardrobe, complete with corsets, voluminous dresses and sheer chiffon. He presented beautiful feminine dresses in retro-looking fabrics, as if they were cut from the world’s most beautiful curtains. Dresses cut in half from different fabrics, all of which were incredibly beautiful.
Meanwhile, on the streets of Shoreditch, David Koma showed off his latest round of high-octane looks, with floor-length skirts draped from one leg, and skirts continuing to flatter the figure. Best of all, the many thigh-high boots, orange, blue and sparkly embellishments were sure to be seen on celebrities soon.
Molly Goddard put on a stunning show in bright rainbow tones and slapstick for days, culminating in a ballet dress that looked like it was made of nothing but gathered netting, while the duo of Chopova Lowena made their first runway show. Finished off with carabiners on the dress, their iconic debut was full of colour, pattern and youthful energy.
Halpern opened the show at the Royal Exchange in a cornflower blue look and a large diaphanous gown that hung under his chin. Definitely a Queen nod, it felt a little out of step with the looks that followed in 1970s Studio 54.
Fine and flexible, the glamor looks like tight, slim dresses and kick-worn pants with mismatched legs, before turning into a Barbie-themed room, complete with huge, flashy wigs. Drawing these different elements together, the closing look was another headscarf and cape combo, this time in retro baby toy black.
Paul and Joe used a red gingham headdress tied under the chin for the Queen.
Updated: September 21, 2022, 12:00 p.m
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