The best brands highlight older models, durability

Seeing sustainability as a key objective and older and more diverse models on the runway were real highlights of London Fashion Week. Big Four Fashion Weeks is also one of the youngest, most forward-thinking events, returning with 32 digital presentations and 81 live shows. Established designers during this period included Bora Aksu, David Koma, Emilia Wickstead, Molly Goddard and Pam Hogg. Rising stars Sabira, Chet Lo, Masha Popova, Yuhan Wang and Edward Crutchley continue to impress. Here are just eight of the highlights from a solid showcase of talent.

1. Pam Hogg

The Glaswegian designer/musician made her trademark comeback with a strong performance. Super wearable tailored jackets, jumpsuits and bodysuits with color splatter prints, first featured in Fashion Scout’s Cat Show. Then, as expected from a designer who counts Björk, Gaga and Debbie Harry as clients, things got edgier as the runway turned to bold colors and bold, voluminous silhouettes, with extensive use of gaudy jewellery. As Pam Hogg often said after launching her first collection in 1981, “Once a punk, always a punk.

2. Rixo

Rixo loves easy to wear, feminine shapes, original hand-painted prints and timeless images, to seduce every woman, regardless of age, size and shape. Designer duo Henrietta Ricks and Orlagh McCloskey ensure no piece is mass produced and use family run, small suppliers. Shown at the glorious Hop Exchange near London Bridge, the RIXO SS23 collection was inspired by a trip to Goa, specifically Goa’s Latin Quarter. The area’s bright, bold buildings and Ca’Pietra tiles influenced the hand-painted prints. Keeping things fun, this collection introduces 60 new shapes, more structured dresses paired with matching jackets, and feminine shirts paired with matching skirts. They also introduced new details in this collection like beautiful rose corsage, beaded lace, sweetheart neckline and craft.

3. David Koma

David Koma presented his spring-summer 2023 dynamic show on the streets of Shoreditch near his studio. The eclectic collection includes biker jackets, denim pants, cowboy boots, scuba suits and lycra swimwear, chainmail cut dresses. They were all on display. Colorful crystal embroidery, iridescent crystals and mirrored plexi-glass embellished the garments. Oil-inspired prints on asymmetrical cut-out tops, silk-stretch mesh skirts, hand-woven macrame tops and skirts, summer trenches and soft cashmere sweaters seem to be included. And a series of structured dresses in electric blue.

4. Helen Anthony

Designed by Naeem Antony, this brand is a fusion of Eastern and Western culture. Hand-embroidered pieces are made from luxurious fabrics such as wool, cashmere and velvet. Sustainable, vegan leather and refined fabrics add a bold element to the collection. The collection includes elegant, well-structured and oversized floor-length coats and wide-shouldered blazers, as well as flowing, low-cut maxi dresses with elegant tails. Naim Anthony played with height and length, adding both high- and low-waisted pants and long and short skirts to add playfulness to razor-sharp British tailoring.

5. Edlin Lee

British-Canadian designer Adeline Lee has been using sustainable practices since launching her brand in 2014. All pieces are hand cut and made in London and many fabrics are recycled. The brand’s top fans include Alicia Vikander, Olivia Colman, Sharon Horgan, Sally Hawkins, Helen Mirren, Gemma Chan, Taylor Swift, Phoebe Wallerbridge and Solange Knowles. In her latest collection, Lee experiments with drapery, knots and folds and celebrates female power in mythology, with nods to Medusa, the goddess Athena and Amazon warriors. And as always, simple silhouettes, precise tailoring and the designer’s elegant signature Flou Bubble Jacquard fabric compliment every look. A color palette that includes red, navy, lime and mint is a real winner.

6. Paul & Joe

The chic French brand’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection, designed by Sophie Mechaly, evokes a secret garden with magical mushrooms printed on embroidery and luxurious silk, and embroidered maxi flowers bloom on a long organza dress. A beautiful garden color palette ranges from limoncello yellow to pistachio green, marshmallow pink to coral orange and hot pink. Strapless heart-shaped dresses, a gorgeous flowing maxi dress with vertical stripes and a colorful blue silk trouser are the highlights.

7. Karina Bond

Emerging designer Karina Bond’s new collection “Cocktails at Nautilus” was inspired by her childhood exploration of marine life. She interprets the fluid, weightless movement of jellyfish and anemones in an eclectic line, which uses fabrics like silk, velvet, organza and jewel-toned satin. With most of the stock created using laser cutting techniques, the designer’s manufacturing process is sustainable, with minimal fabric waste, while avoiding mass production by twisting, painting and dyeing satin and velvet in small batches.

8. Timmy Chou by FJU Talents x Fashion Scout

FJU Talents, an annual platform showcasing designers from Taiwan, has selected four designers to showcase their capsule collections at Fashion Scouts during London Fashion Week. The FJU Talents 2022 finalists are: Chao-Ruei Wu, Chia-Lin Hsu, Chi-An Yu and Timmy Chou. A fashion design graduate from Fu Jin Catholic University, Timmy’s collection is inspired by Taiwanese indigenous cultures. The design concept tries to reflect the square shape of the traditional Austrian ethnic clothing in the image. The freedom of dress makes the fabric connect with the body, and it also represents the natural and unrestrained nature of Taiwanese people.

The upcoming public event, London Fashion Week Urban Celebration from Thursday 6 October – Thursday 13 October, will include designer Q&A sessions, workshops around zero waste crafts and upcycling, live music performances and limited edition product drops. The line-up includes a BOSS party, Richard Quinn, Raf Simons and Roxanne, a new store from Marc Jacobs and another magazine for Björk powered by Gucci.