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Like the Eiffel Tower above the city, Chanel’s role is to “elevate” Parisian fashion even as it is blinded by catwalk antics like Kanye West, said the brand’s fashion president, Bruno Pavlowski.
“Fashion week encompasses many of the emotions of the moment,” Pavlovsky said before his final show at Paris Fashion Week. But at Chanel we prefer a dream, some stability, to controversy.
Chanel designer Virginie Viard based her latest collection on Alain Resnais’s New Wave classic, which won the Léodor at the 1961 Venice Film Festival. The vintage and timeless wardrobe Chanel created for Seyrig, which included a classic Chanel two-piece suit and a black chiffon cocktail dress, was specifically designed to enhance the avant-garde twist of the era. A film where the story unfolds in mysterious flashbacks.
Audiences of the Chanel show are seated in a cinema-style setting in front of a giant screen that shows several scenes from the film. Models walked in front of the screen wearing clothes that could be on sale at Chanel boutiques the following spring, but this could just as easily have been on film in 1961. Classic black chiffon cocktail dresses, feminine polka dots and soft, long evening dresses emphasized the timelessness of Chanel’s aesthetic. The feather trim of the cream dress worn in the film has been seen on many outfits, from party dresses to tweed suits.
Speaking ahead of the event, Pavlovsky emphasized the importance of the Chanel brand’s commitment to e-commerce for brick-and-mortar retail. “We have more customers coming to our boutiques, everywhere, than ever before,” he said. “Chanel is not about product, it’s about painting and spirit. The best place to practice drawing is in the dressing room. With digital, you can see the product, but you can’t see the spirit. The creative energy you experience in the boutique is the best way to measure the value of Chanel.
Pavlovsky added that Chanel’s global price alignment strategy is interpreted by some analysts as the first step in e-commerce, “the best way to organize ourselves in times of economic stress.” There’s a lot of uncertainty – we’ll see what’s happening in the UK, for example – and we need to make sure we build the right conditions for Chanel to continue to innovate.
The December 6 show in Dakar, Senegal will be the first Chanel show to be held in Africa. “This was Virginie [Viard]”The motivation,” said Pavlovsky. “When you look at a map, Chanel is in every part of the world except Africa. From day one, Virginie said this was something important that was missing from Chanel. He added that the choice of Dakar reflects the city’s reputation as a center for contemporary African art and its craft heritage.
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