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Issei Miyake, one of the most prominent Japanese designers in Paris in the 1980s, landed in Tokyo on Friday. He was 84.
His death was announced by the Miyake Design Studio on Tuesday in the hospital, the cause of which was liver cancer.
Mr. Miyake’s designs appeared everywhere, from morning to night, from factory floors – to uniforms for Japanese electronics giant Sony – to black tie dance uniforms.
His insistence that clothing is a form of design was considered avant-garde in the early years of his career, and he had extensive collaborations with photographers and architects. His designs were on the cover of Artiforum in 1982 – unheard of for a fashion designer at the time – and entered the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
Mr. Miyake is credited with creating a global brand in Japan that has contributed to the country’s efforts to build itself as a global destination for fashion and pop culture. In the year In 2010, he received the country’s highest art honor, the Order of Culture.
And as one of the first Japanese designers to appear in Paris, he was part of a revolutionary wave of designers that brought Japanese fashion to the rest of the world, eventually opening the door for contemporaries like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.
Mr. Miyake is perhaps best known for microplating, which he first experimented with around 1988, but recently it has been gaining popularity among new and younger consumers. He was guided by his fashion philosophy: According to his book “Pleats Please” (2012 edited by his colleague Midori Kitamura), clothes should “give freedom to the wearer.”
In the year Released in 1993, his Pleats Please line of clothing, made from lightweight polyester, featured razor-sharp, accordion-like pleats with visible pleats for casual wear. They became a very familiar sight. To Wear Pleats was a discovery of a lack of physical restraint, and Mr. Miyake was a discovery of a lack of emotional and creative restraint.
Most pleated suits had no buttons, zippers, or snaps. There were no tight armholes, or plunging waistlines. They crept into his body and were vague enough to look for a little girth – bras and panties, for example. The necklines were not too deep to reveal. Often, Mr. Miak used strong colors – blue, green, crimson – or fabrics printed with flowers or tattoos.
And with its proprietary heat treatment system, these clothes never lose their shape: they don’t wrinkle or shrink even when rolled into balls or knots, and they can be machine washed.
Their example was conceived in the year In 1991, Mr. Miyake collaborated with the choreographer William Forsyth on a Frankfurt ballet production Mr. Forsyth called “The Loss of Small Details. The male dancers wore pants, then changed to a skirt, the women on the contrary. Regardless of what they wore, they were free to jump, fly, and fly.
But Mr. Miyake was more than plates. His Bao Bao bag, made of mesh fabric layered with small colored triangles of polyvinyl, has long been a staple of creative industries. He also developed the black Terlink, the signature piece of Apple co-founder Steve Jobs.
In the year In 1992, he introduced L’Oré d’Esse, a floral fragrance for women that ends with a woody scent in spring. The perfume was created by Jacques Cavallier, and the bottle was designed by Mr. Miac (with Fabien Baron and Alain de Morges) – a thin, small, inverted glass cone with a mottled silver top accented with an orb. Mr. Miyake was inspired when he caught a glimpse of the moon rising over the Eiffel Tower one night in Paris.
Kazunaru Miyake was born on April 22, 1938. (The character of Kazunaru is pronounced Issei in Japanese, meaning one life.) Cheryl Garratt wrote in the British newspaper The Telegraph in 2010 that she walked away with a “calling disability”. In the year For surviving the atomic bomb dropped on his hometown of Hiroshima on August 6, 1945. When he was 10, he developed bone marrow disease, Ms. Garratt wrote, and his mother died of radiation poisoning.
“I’ve been there, and I’m only 7 years old,” Mr. Miyake wrote in a 2009 opinion piece for The New York Times. “When I opened my eyes, I still saw something that no one should ever have to experience: a bright red light, the black cloud soon followed by people running in every direction trying to escape. I remember them all.”
Mr. Miyake rarely discusses that day or other aspects of his personal history – “He prefers to think about things that can be created, not destroyed, and that bring beauty and happiness,” he wrote in the essay.
In the year He graduated from Tama Art University in Tokyo in 1963, where he trained as a designer because fashion was not available for study there.
In the year In 1965 he moved to Paris, where he worked as an assistant to Guy La Roche and Guinchy. While there, he saw the student protest of May 1968, which inspired him to make clothes for everyone, not just the elite.
In the year In 2017, “Where Did Issei Come From?” “I seem to have witnessed great social changes,” he was quoted as saying in the book. By Kazuko Koike. “Paris in May 68, Beijing in Tiananmen, New York in 9/11. As a witness to history.”
He spent time in New York, then founded the Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo in 1970.
He has often emphasized that he does not consider himself a “fashion designer”.
“Anything that’s ‘in fashion’ quickly goes out of style,” he told ParisVoice magazine in 1998. “I don’t do fashion. I make clothes,” he said.
In the year In a 2015 interview with the Japanese daily The Yomiuri Shimbun, he said: “I didn’t want to make clothes that only people with money could wear. Things like jeans and t-shirts, common to most people, were easy to wash and easy to use.
However, he was especially known as a designer who combined fashion with technology and art. In the year In 2000, he introduced another collection designed to make clothes easier, eliminating the need to cut and sew the fabric. With the concept of “A Piece of Cloth” or “A-POC”, a single thread can be fed into a computerized industrial knitting or weaving machine. In a single process, the machine creates a fully finished garment body that comes out as a single tube of fabric. The clothes can be cut with cutters on the border lines. A fabric tube can produce a skirt, a hat and a shirt. Tear the fabric, and a dress appears.
Working with the architect and product designer Ron Arad, Mr. Miyake created the A-POC Trampoline, shown in 2006, which can double as a sweater jacket, pants and a stolen Arad looping, figure-eight Ripple chair cover. The annual Salone del Mobile design fair in Milan.
A notoriously private man – information on survivors was not immediately available – but Mr Miyake was known for his close ties to longtime colleagues and associates, which he said were essential to his success. Ms. Kitamura, for example, began as a qualified model at the studio, continued to work with him for nearly 50 years, and now serves as the president of the design studio. His collaboration with fashion photographer Irving Penn resulted in two books.
Throughout his life, he “never deviated from his love, the creative process,” Mr. Miyake’s office said in a statement.
“What I’m most interested in is people and the human form,” Mr. Miyake told The Times in 2014. Clothing is the closest thing to humans.
Ben Dooley And Hikari Hida He reported from Tokyo.
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