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An eye roll “Surrealism is trending!” said one fashion editor. It’s an incomprehensible response when he declares. Sportswear that clashes with reality and the subconscious — or with subtle nipples, like Alaia’s dress below — may seem appropriate only for the most stylish of insiders.
But the main aspect of authenticity is gone. Recently spotted in London: Kylie Jenner in a vintage fall 2007 Comme des Garçons dress and jacket with 3-D hands emblazoned across her hips and bust.
From left: A Lowe’s Fall 2022 dress adorned with faux balloons that look like they’re about to explode. The timpée l’oeil face, nipples and navel of this dress were inspired by Picasso’s ceramics. Alaïa dress, $6,500, gagosianshop.com
Her outfit recalls Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli’s work with real artists such as Salvador Dali (The Melted Hourglass Man) and Man Ray (known for airbrushed lips) after launching her brand in Trompe L’Oil sweaters in 1927. . In the year In 1934, she also showed the attachment, a beautiful jacket, hat, bag and belt.
Flower girl Chiara Ferragni in a Shiaparelli top with a rosette ‘breast’ at the Haute Couture shows in Paris in July.
Photo:
Getty Images
In the year After becoming Schiaparelli’s creative director in 2019, Daniel Roseberry brought the label back into focus. You may have seen the curious pair of studded fingers and teeth combo earrings on Beyoncé at the 2021 Grammys. Kim Kardashian wears an emerald gown with a Hulk-ish bodice designed in 2020. It combines physicality, art and sexuality to compliment Elsa’s original take on surrealism. He and his team “talk a lot about ‘Psycho Chick’.” That is, fashion is that which “doesn’t bend a bit without going over the edge”. Beginners who prefer more twists can start with an inconspicuous bag or bauble, he said.
In true fashion, “Shock! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris (until January 22). A shining example: the 1937 Schiaparelli dress (pictured below) has bold tones thanks to a strategically placed lobster painted by Dalí.
A direct deal from left: Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli co-created this 1937 lobster dress. Man Ray Photo: Philadelphia Museum of Art, Christie’s Images
Fall collections from Lowe’s, Y/Project and more gave nods to style philosophies. Since 1995, London jewelry designer Solange Azaguri-Partridge’s Hotlips ring has been crafted in silver or gold and covered in a variety of enamel colors, making it a favorite among true fans. She called it a “visual game.”
Early Surrealists could easily have used the same term. “Everything was double,” said Darius Himes, international head of photography at Christie’s. Self-sufficiency, he says, “is the rejection of meaning in order to pursue other means of attaining happiness.”
Maybe he’s not so talented after all.
Improbable Options From left: Earrings, $300, AgmesNYC.com; JW Anderson Top, $190, Farfetch.com; Solange Hotlips Ring, $285, Shop-US.DoverStreetMarket.com; Jacket, $7,800, Shiaparelli.com
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