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no In theory, sustainable fashion doesn’t have to have a single look. After all, the whole point of prioritizing ethics over ethical aesthetics is that clothing design is not entirely about what it looks like, but how it works: the raw materials used, the industrial processes carried out, the people employed, the carbon footprint. Transportation. In fact, it has an appearance. You can’t take beauty out of fashion. Sustainable fashion also has style rules. Just different.
Some of these are simple implementations. Sequins, mostly made from non-biodegradable fabrics, are environmentally friendly. If you jazz up the t-shirt with decorative zippers or decorate it with jewels or sequins, it makes the fabric much harder to reuse or recycle. Therefore, a streamlined design is preferable. Textile dyeing is one of the most water-intensive elements in the garment manufacturing cycle, so bright colors can be a red flag.
A lot of luggage is built around our idea of ​​what sustainable fashion looks like: sleeker, rougher fabrics than homespun, less industrial, shiny or not; Bamboo, birds, waves and other prints and patterns that respect nature; To avoid semaphoring personal vanity, loose silhouettes; Raw edges and textures to leave problematic levels of bling.
But this is changing. As circularity is now a cornerstone of mainstream strategies for sustainability, consumers and brands are looking at clothing through a new lens. Roundness focuses on the long-term appeal of clothing and its value in the future resale market. This is a radical departure for the industry’s value system, which has historically seen hero-worshipping new clothes – especially those with tags attached and covered in tissue – and clothes that have no relevance to fashion discourse. .
According to the British Fashion Council (BFC), the 10-year industry transformation program for which the government has pledged £80m in funding is focused on “creating a world-leading circular fashion ecosystem in the UK”. In a Downing Street announcement of the scheme, BFC chair Stephanie Faier set out a vision for a city like Leeds, rich in manufacturing and textiles, to retain its role as a fashion hub. The textile industry, and the example of a circular city, are recycling methods with regenerating plants and energetic roads.
Meanwhile, Love Island sponsored a summer of resale for clothing supplier eBay, and Dr. Martens partnered with fashion app Depop to offer a sales platform for refurbished shoes. With the resale market growing 11 times faster than traditional retail, according to a global report by Thredup, brands including Valentino and Gucci are looking to partner with customers who have pieces from the past in their wardrobes with proven shopping methods.
Circularity is far from a magic bullet for the fashion industry’s environmental problems. Rental firms have faced criticism for the impact on transport and cleaning as dresses are shuffled from one wearer to another every few days. But the most fundamental issue of circularity is its biggest flaw and biggest asset in terms of sustainability: circularity doesn’t try to stop fashion consumers from buying. Given the scale of the climate emergency, many campaigners believe that any policy that supports our need to trade will feed the problem. But by giving others a scratch to buy the itch, circularity offers a roadmap that consumers and brands can realistically be persuaded to follow.
While the environmental impact of fashion’s new focus on pre-owned clothing is unclear, its impact on the way we want to dress is clear. It is also very different from the old ideas about ethical fashion. The clothes that are in demand now will still be in demand in five years. That means they wear black and white clothes rather than any color of the season.
In other words, the most radical statement you can make with your clothes is not to express them as a fad of the moment, but as a symbol of your choice, rather with the intention of making it live a long and hard life in you. wardrobe or someone else’s.
This week the September editions of glossy magazines hit newsstands, revealing a new look for the season. Key pieces for next fall? White cotton shirts, tailored trousers, knitted sweaters, black biker boots, leather belts and gold chain necklaces. Trends are very last season; Timeless is hot right now.
Ralph Lauren, who built his luxury empire not on setting trends, but on capturing timeless Manhattan style, is now one of the many establishment brands that have established themselves at the forefront of fashion. The preppy classics of the 1980s and the proto-streetwear of the 1990s are highly regarded by Generation Z consumers, making the brand one of the most sought-after names in pre-loved fashion. Ralph Lauren’s head of sustainability, Devon Leahy, recently told Vogue Business that “timeless design” is key to sustainability, because of its power to ensure the desirability of clothes in the future. Leahy sees the development of circularity, which could include brands taking a percentage of resale profits in exchange for certification, as an important step in dissociating financial growth from the heavy carbon footprint of still producing new clothes.
The most curvaceous fashion of the season never looks radical. Establishment classics are the new avant-garde, as the aspirational image is so in tune with the zeitgeist that it doesn’t follow the trend cycle. From jeans and sturdy biker boots to corduroy cotton shirts and simple tailoring, from cotton trouser skirts to gabardine raincoats, timelessness is back in the hot seat. The new look? Old school classics, played on repeat.
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