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Many would argue that the best seat in the house at New York Fashion Week is the front row. Watching the season’s latest looks like a catwalk of camera-ready celebs, socialites, editors, influencers and buyers — and it’s a fun social experiment to witness IRL. However, as someone who has spent the better part of her career reporting behind the scenes, I would argue that backstage provides a better (unfiltered) look at the action. It is also where the world’s biggest names in beauty play.
Rock star hairstylists, makeup artists, and craftspeople all descend on the Big Apple for a few days of jam-packed fun and are integral to bringing a designer’s dream to life. These perks transform supermodels into everything from “human bouquets” (seen at SHAAYNEOLIVER’s Fall 2022 show) to “mushroom-busting aliens” (seen at Rodarte’s Spring 2022 romp), their colors, makeup, and often secret drugs. “Seeing something imagined in my head translated into models never gets old!” Makeup artist Pat McGrath speaks to the fashion powerhouse with countless seasons under her belt.
While NYFW is known for producing minimally wearable beauty statements (at least compared to London, Milan and Paris), there are still plenty of artists pushing the boundaries – and somehow still rocking smoky eyes, ponytails and bare nails in new ways. “It all starts in New York,” McGrath said. “Personally, I always look forward to Fashion Month because it’s a time when creativity is at the forefront of everyone’s mind.”
Ahead of the Spring/Summer 2023 shows, TZR shines a spotlight on a few backstage legends who created some of the most impressive looks to appear on the runway.
Behind the scenes, McGrath is known by one name: “Mom.” (In other circles, she’s a dame — the first makeup artist to be given the title of the Queen of England.) The iconic pro is undoubtedly the matriarch of a great fashion family and has been a star at some of the biggest shows. After the NYFW calendar played key to Anna Sui’s 1998 fall-winter show. Always dressed in an all-black uniform with a matching headband, the unwavering beauty force constantly delivers jaw-dropping looks that are no less than makeup masterpieces. Expect feathers, petals, crystals, glitter, paillettes, and of course makeup from her signature line, Pat McGrath Labs, to be used in the most outrageous and mind-blowing ways.
McGrath also told TZR that she’s excited to see her brand’s latest collaboration with Sullum — a trio of black, white and red nail polishes — “out in the wild” this season. The polishes will be added to Pro’s 60-plus suitcases full of beauty treasures that will travel with her around the world. A mother comes prepared because everything she creates is, as McGrath often says,Main.“
Palau, one of McGrath’s primary partners in crime, is a veritable legend in his own right. During NYFW, the venerable coiffure is booked and busy, crafting in demand by the biggest names in fashion. He’s also one of the most versatile and talented hairstylists in the game—doing gravity-defying hairdos on Tomoe Koizumi, high ponytails on Tory Burch, slick braids on Proenza Schouler, and neon bowls on Marc Jacobs. The man does it all of them With impeccable elegance – giving the world grunge (an aesthetic he helped define in his work for Calvin Klein in the ’90s), glamor and everything in between. By George Michael “Freedom! ’90” video and the conceptual titles of “Savage Beauty,” Alexander McQueen at the Met (he was one of the designer’s longtime collaborators). In short, Palau doesn’t just do hair—he shapes the story.
If you’ve had the pleasure of interviewing Kendall at a fashion show, be sure to tune in to hear her describe the look on hand. Instead of yelling at the chaos backstage, she prefers to let the soft-spoken professor do all the work for her. Sometimes it’s a graphic, neon eye (seen at Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2022 show) or a Snuffleupagus-level lash (seen at Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2021 extravaganza) that says, “Look. as if. Me” Other times, it’s a whisper of blush or a strategic swipe of clear balm that gives just the right hint of polish. One thing that doesn’t change with Kendall’s look is fresh, glowing skin (which is a big deal when models’ faces are painted and scrubbed multiple times a day during NYFW). Her signature spray of rose water, moisturizer and concealer (strategically applied in an understated way) make even the sleepless supermodel look radiant.
For a long time, male hairdressers were behind the scenes at the runway shows. Gilbert broke the men’s circle and paved the way for many women to follow in her footsteps. Being born in France brings something special I don’t know what it is It weaves incredible braids, repeats, crochets and curls into the scene and the designers’ dreams. In past seasons, Gilbert’s stunning looks have made Rodarte the show’s hottest back ticket for beauty producers in town. She transforms it into the most gorgeous hair accessories imaginable (as evidenced by the cloud of baby’s breath at Sisters’ Spring 2018 show) that complements fabric, orchids, rose petals, and even flowers. Sofia Coppola In her 2006 film, Kirsten Dunst commissioned her expert to create a stunning bouquet of flowers. Marie Antoinette. Gilbert will go down in history much like the Queen of France – luckily, her decadent creations have nothing to do with cake.
Choi has won her way into the hearts of fashion heavyweights (including photographer Steven Meisel and designer Marc Jacobs) with her warm personality, incredible work ethic, and of course her impeccable craftsmanship. Before the professor owned the industry, she began riding her bicycle to clients’ homes in New York City after emigrating from Korea with $400 in her pocket. Since then, she’s launched eponymous polish lines, opened four eponymous nail spas, and created looks for countless runway shows. Models like Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Gisele Bündchen happily pose for #JINstagrams because not only is Choi a backstage presence, but she’s also the kindest, most down-to-earth person in the biz. This season, keep an eye out for manicurist minimalist nail art and stunning colors at Michael Kors, Brandon Maxwell, Peter Doe and Fendi.
Redway works with big names on the red carpet – including Lupita Nyong’o, Tessa Thompson and Lucy Boynton – but her first job is based on the runway. Before opening shows for the likes of Christian Siriano and Fe Noël (both this season), the Jamaican-born hairstylist assisted majors like Palau, Gilbert, Didier Malige and Eugene Suleiman. With her lightning-quick braiding skills (which she honed by doing her classmates’ hair at age 11), she was behind the rest of the Palau scene. At the time, Redway was one of the few professionals who could execute the look. Any Hair type and texture – an aspect of the industry she has worked hard to change behind the scenes and in favor of greater diversity at every level of the fashion business. Redway told TZR: “Before I leave the industry, I’m trying to make sure that I create a safe space for other women of color to be able to perform at the same level, if not more, than me. To be respectful and have an easy time.
It’s not unusual to see a supermodel making a beeline for the coveted chair back for Pechex. The French makeup artist doesn’t just slap makeup on a mannequin and move on to the next one — she rubs each cat-seeker’s face to boost their glow and soothe NYFW-induced anxiety at the same time. His composure (and sense of humor) endears him to even tired reporters taking copious notes on his signature technique. For more than three decades, Peaches has created some of the most memorable beauty moments, from Crayola blush at Oscar de la Renta to Brandon Maxwell’s gold-encrusted ruby lips. Regardless of the professor’s dream behind the scenes, positive vibes are always an important part of the visual. “When someone leaves my chair, I want it to go with good energy,” Pecheuse told The Cut.
Linda. Christy. Naomi Amber Iman. Cindy. Gisele Carly. Kendall. Garen (Another Single Sense) The list of one-name fashion wonders that have evolved over the years is endless. The mane master is responsible for some of Hollywood’s most influential hair moments, working with the likes of Farrah Fawcett, Audrey Hepburn, Madonna, Lady Gaga and Victoria Beckham. In addition to creating images for runway shows, designer campaigns and magazine covers, Garren also served as a mentor to other famous coiffeurs such as the late Oribe. Appearing backstage at Anna Sui (one of his longtime collaborators) during NYFW, it’s a rare opportunity to watch one of the OGs work his magic again.
Westman, who grew up in an ashram, wasn’t allowed to wear make-up at home – which makes him even more attractive. Once she experiences forbidden fruit, which involves painting her classmates’ faces instead of her own, the makeup artist is hooked. Finally, her skills – refined in Paris and Los Angeles makeup schools – attracted the attention of celebrities Vogue Editor Grace Coddington’s stamp of approval has gone a long way in the fashion world. Westman quickly became one of the most in-demand, creating naturally glowing skins (one of her signatures) at shows such as Oscar de la Renta, Brock Collection, Khaite and Rag & Bone. She channeled all of these behind-the-scenes experiences into her eponymous makeup line, Westman Atelier, giving everyone a chance to shine like a supermodel under the bright lights of NYFW. Pro is proof that breaking the rules has its benefits.
If Pecis isn’t fielding calls from Chanel, Thom Browne, Altuzarra, Brock Collection or Gabriela Hearst, he’s probably pulling. The professor from Northern California has also produced a book (Noodles) that combines a love of hair with a love of the ocean, with proceeds going to Mission Blue to support marine conservation. In addition to crafting intricate braids, stunning updos, and deep-sea waves for big names on the fashion circuit, Pecis calls on environmentalists, beauty brands and designers to do better in front of the house and in an industry known for creating waste. Behind the scenes. While many still consider him a member of the “new guard,” at least compared to the backstage players on this list, he’s already turned heads and made big waves.
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