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Photo-Illustration: By The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Vaquera, Dior, Saint Laurent
So the spring collections have finally returned to the motherland: Paris. It’s time to get serious and do your hair. Or meditate over a chocolate chaud. in the cafe. Paris may seem a bit run down these days, and Europe in general, with inflation, the summer drought, and Giorgia Meloni’s victory in Italy, but for Americans, at least there’s a sense of paying less for everything. That €3 drink now costs $2.85.
The big houses are still spending like Medicis. In fact, it was Catherine de Medici, Queen of France in the mid-1500s, who introduced the platform shoe to Europe – who knew! – Tuesday was the main source of the Dior show, which inspired Catherine, was set in a high structure in the Tuileries Palace, and not far from the site of the Tuileries Palace, which burned down in 1871 during the Commune. For the central room, Dior asked the artist Eva Jospin to create a large grotto in the usual cardboard and glue centers. To get a sense of the weight and detail, imagine a sequoia trunk carved with nail scissors. Above it were lighted vitrines, and there was a tunnel through which the models walked.
Dior.
Photo: Courtesy of Dior
That evening, Saint Laurent returned to the Trocadero esplanade opposite the Eiffel Tower. As almost every tourist knows, there is a large reflecting pool and fountain that Saint Laurent has covered or used in some way for his shows in the past. Somehow, the waterfall seemed huge to me, even fierce. It took a while to realize that the company had built a fountain at the top of the water fountain and pool, and laid out a wide stone skirt for a runway. This is logical – a source on top of a source.
Saint Laurent.
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Let’s talk about the Saint Laurent collection first because there is little to say about it. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello showed variations on a semi-sheer, ankle-length tube dress, many with the hood partially pulled over the model’s head. He cited the style of Saint Laurent decades ago. In an equally frequent number, the broad-shouldered coat was swept to the ground – the models were pulling despite the high heels, which gave some girls a hard time – and a few perfect. The show did well – until No. 27 of 48 – before the appearance of casual trousers with shirts and coats. From a purely visual standpoint, hooded dresses and coats had a certain nostalgic charm—nostalgic in part because the models were thinner. But the feeling was very harsh and long stretches seemed untouched. Also, this is the second collection of Vaccarello managed by Cote in a row. All in all, it leaves the vast legacy of Saint Laurent largely unexplored and unexplored.
Saint Laurent.
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
In addition to the stunning Paper Grotto, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri invited Dutch dancers and composers Imre and Marne van Opstal to perform with their group. While jumping, models in pigtails in an 18th century Paris Dior archival map print, full skirts open with knit or lace boxers with matching tops and other feminine styles, including corset belts. -Century printing style but from Fashion house in the middle. Christian Dior knew where he fit into the universe of Paris.
Dior.
Photo: Courtesy of Dior
This beautiful collection is made in several stages. Chiuri established a princess line – called Miss Dior dresses – as her favourite, go to picture. But this time, her choice of nylon-and-silk blend sheer black sleeveless dress with subtle vertical prints on the waist and bodice made the style look sharp and modern. The fabric had a sporty nylon and rust body.
In most of her choices, of course, Chiuri wanted a modern hybrid. The opening style – an embroidered black raffia dress draped over a mini-crinoline, and worn with a black bra – may have looked like a lampshade, but it all made sense. “The idea is to keep the couture attitude but with a product that people actually wear,” says Chiuri. Woven raffia was one example. Another was inspired by earlier undergarments (another Medici contribution to French culture, such as chiuri) and was made of cotton, which featured oversized skirts and skimpy tops as boxers. It was a unique approach that had been fashionable for centuries to subvert the conventions of modesty. It is the time to openly expose the genitals.
Chiuri has found easy ways to incorporate historical shapes into her clothes without stressing over history – like collared shirts with a full-sleeve white cotton shirt and puffball skirt or trousers. There was a hint of the baroque in the collection, and her use of smoking (for cotton or fabric dresses), lace and embroidery, sometimes in patchwork, echoed the stunning July coat show. But again, Chiuri kept it real and, above all, youthful.
Cow girl
Photo: Courtesy of Vaquera
When I left the Vaquera show in the Marais on Monday night, I was surprised and delighted to see all the models lined up on curved, low-slung stairs. Patrick DiCaprio, who was with Bryn Taubensee Design Vaquera, was then thinking about “Versace 2008” – that is, when the designers presented their models elegantly on the steps or in groups backstage. “Chees,” DiCaprio said with a laugh.
That’s not the idea I slipped past the girls. They looked tough, rarely smiled back, and some had a look, I felt.
Cow girl
Photo: Courtesy of Vaquera
It made me love the show even more. Perhaps because they are young themselves, Taubanse and DiCaprio have a very natural way of packaging women’s power into beauty – with the models’ vigorous walking, with jammed music (DJ’s physical therapy work), with stripped-back clothing and style. Standouts included athletic jerseys (including one as a long, souped-up sweater), baseball caps and polo shirts, a surprisingly twisted sailor suit, and a black motorcycle jacket and frank micro boleros.
The show felt conflicted, as you’d expect from two Americans who pretend they have nothing to lose. I asked them about the latest militant way of rejecting the old standards of feminism. They almost didn’t know how to answer. “I think it’s something for Vaquera,” DiCaprio said.
With the support of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market, the designers said they intend to continue showing in Paris.
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