Fashion’s “free spirit” Matteo Blazy takes over at Bottega Veneta

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Blazey pulls a bag off the shelf as we walk into the showroom. “You see master craftsmanship,” he says. The “seamless” basket-like weave of this bag is meant to be slung over the shoulder through a single brass ring. Each one must be wrapped by hand, which means no two are the same. “It’s a luxury,” says Blazy. This bag, Blazy told me, inspired the flip side, the Italian cartoon character Calimero, a rooster with a trump strap on his property. “It was the bag that opened the program,” he said.

That first show, in February, was heralded as a triumph of tradition and innovation. The opening look: A young woman struts down the runway in a white tank top, relaxed blue jeans and sensible black heels, a Kalimero bag slung over her shoulder. Or so it seemed: the pants, delicately tailored, were actually made of soft leather, printed with ink for the look of blue jeans. Was this lofty idea ridiculous? Or was it just what it sounds like: a timeless, unpretentious street look, full of sexiness and function, a luxury known only to its owner?

The whole collection is decorated with the same duality. On the one hand there were shiny, bold flights: the pants were soft leather, moving like silk; Jackets are cut like shirts; woolen robes made to resemble the terrazzo floor at Milan Malpensa Airport; Bale-like extensions on the classic dress. On the other hand, there was a collection of irresistible dressing skills. A coat has flexible, half-sleeves; Another jacket, on the other hand, is plain and simple. (“I was attracted to the fact that it looked completely undesigned,” Blazey says. “It’s a very well-made jacket. And that’s it. While preparing, Blazey studied Italian Futurism, particularly the work of Umberto Boccioni, and discussed Alberto Giacometti’s The Walking Man. “We wanted to be bourgeois before him. , it’s not overdesigned – then when you look to the side, blow!” he says. “This is our range, the image of the image.

As he took me to a showroom, showing off his latest creations – shoes inspired by poisonous mushrooms; Going yellow and deep green – it will continue to return to the bags. One is called JJ because, when he puts it on the floor and grabs the strap, it reminds him of John’s departure. The other is inspired by the helmet – it is not worn on the head but hangs from the arm, a sports power pose. “It’s a mix between sophisticated and very playful,” says Blazey. His apartment in Milan is a monument to personal beauty. “It’s a funny story,” he says. “When I got the job, I went online to see what was on the market and saw this apartment for rent. I’m like, ‘I’ve been there.’” He was told he could call the number and come over there and see. I walked in and was like, ‘I was here 15 years ago when Rafi was at Jil Sander.’ It was his place! He took it at once.

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