New York Fashion Week F/W23 Review: Coach, Love Shake Fancy


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From left: Environment, Carolina Herrera and coach.
Photo-Illustration: By The Cut; Photos: In the area, Carolina Herrera, coach

Fashion Week, which ends on Wednesday night, produced two great themes this season: You either come dressed for work or you don’t wear anything at all. Or maybe just a bath towel. Maryam Nasir Zade closed the event with a girl in a white terry dress. This happened after Zade took her daughters on sidewalks along Forsyth Street, the Lower East Side, and handball courts on Grand Street. Many of their tops include pieces of fabric. One model wore what looked like two heritage cotton coasters, scalloped and embroidered, tied together with string. The bottoms of Zadeh’s clothes, if you could call them that, weren’t very useful.

A colleague of mine complained that Zadeh was in a “styling arms race,” meaning she was trying to make a provocative statement with her ensembles and shapes. I didn’t give her that much respect. This was a lazy effort. Watching the show, I felt that Zadeh had been somewhere warm and blue this summer. Sheer tops and veils hinted at the beach. But what does it mean on the edge of Chinatown? I liked that some guys shooting hoops next door didn’t bother pretending to be themselves. And another thing: some of Zade’s fabrics are obviously precious to her because they look vintage, and her press notes refer to items being “reworked.” But perhaps it is true that she has given them a precious gift, saying that her whole effort has not been justified. And that was annoying.

Maryam Nasir Zade
Photo: Madison Volkel/courtesy of Maryam Nasir Zadeh

Fans of Area — Piotrek Panszczyk’s label, which showed later Monday at the former Whitney Museum — know how to get attention. As I stepped onto the sidewalk, a well-made woman in a pair of black lacy sweaters and a pair of black bustiers was standing in the middle of Madison Avenue, stopping traffic perfectly, making a purposeful grinding motion with her butt. Expected taxis. Meanwhile, schools on the Upper East Side had just let out, so the sidewalks were filled with mothers, children in private school uniforms, and dogs. It was quite a show.

Photo: Courtesy of the area

Of course, most of the enforcement action on Monday took place on the Upper East Side. This is not as strange as it seems. Think of all the socialites of the past decade who set themselves up to show off in the grand ballrooms of the Pier and the Plaza, the days of Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta. Think of the clotheshorses hoping to catch the eye of the late photographer Bill Cunningham standing on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street. And think of the Met Ball circus in May.

Photo: Courtesy of the area

What’s different now is that socialites have been replaced by influencers and celebrities (generally younger people) in borrowed party dresses and glamorous hair and make-up at 10 o’clock, although I’m used to seeing women at a Carolina Herrera show in tulle, satin and diamonds at brunch – designer Wes Gordon in a dress. It’s got a place – it still strikes me as incredibly unreal. Again, it’s almost a full performance as social media has increased the chances of front row guests.

Carolina Herrera
Photo: Courtesy of Carolina Herrera

As for Gordon’s collection, it looks trendy and stylish. Listening to the pure voice of Barbra Streisand (from funny girl) Wearing a full-sleeved, navy striped shirt with a rose-pink floral evening dress, the sound system model did no harm. Midriff Gordon takes it easy on the big bow wow numbers — yellow dresses in soft floral prints, elegant cocktail dresses sprinkled with tulle — and skips the frilly details. That’s what he’s learned over the past few years. The collection was strong on somewhat informal styles, not strictly “daytime,” like strapless wide black and white stripes, a wool mini-suit over strawberry-colored beading, and a black brimmed canvas hat. The net.

“I want people to know that craft is not temporary,” Panszczyk told me after the Aria show. Can he doubt this after seeing the material Kagelik coat studded with dozens of silver metal studs? Or a tiny metal-embellished top with wide-leg pants made of sticky fabric straps that emanate from electronic wires? Environment operates in its own fantastical space, drawing hints of the past and the future, but if Panzczyk’s designs are not well-constructed, the creativity as he knows it is nothing. It also included a number of straightforward styles, including a red-beaded tracksuit and an awesome bandeau top and mini raw denim folded and topped with random denim patches. But the parts of the show are the main thing, and many of them are covered with cloth or flat, beaded bows (mostly) are clearly missing in the threads that cover the genitals.

A coach took over the Park Avenue Armament, where in the middle he erected a large wooden stage with the audience at some distance from it on stilts. Although creative director Stuart Vevers was inspired by the idea of ​​New Yorkers commuting between the city and the beaches of Rockaway and Coney Island in the summer, it never quite came to fruition. Moreover, the clothes looked a little sad and shabby. Vevers has already said that he wants to “reclaim” things – down to elemental leather jackets (some from recycled clothing), shorts and gingham baby doll dresses. The leather jackets were great, but he wanted one more color and yes, more bare skin.

Photo: Courtesy of Coach

Rebecca Hessel Cohen, the founder of Loveshack Fancy, has no illusions about what many women want: the more pink, the better the fruit. After the hustle and bustle of Coach Beach, I wandered down Madison and joined Cohen’s Hukata, a music-filled garden at Cooper Hewitt on 90th Street. The place was crowded with women and girls in LoveShack, the frills and courtships thrown into cotillions and the feminine glamor of classic Hollywood movies.

Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

Or is it still? You can make a fortune by giving people what they want and then repeating it over and over again. I admired the pink and ivory roses that were about to bloom, the champagne tables, and the huge banks of sugary pink macarons. And then I walked past a French bulldog and a golden retriever with their owners to the common wilds that abound on the Upper East Side.

Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows


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