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September’s Spring/Summer 2023 (SS23) fashion week shows have featured major events taking place around the world in New York City, London, Milan and Paris. These events gave fashion houses the opportunity to show their upcoming collections to the press, suppliers and celebrities.
According to John Bartlett, an award-winning fashion designer and now Marist College’s director of fashion, part of his job is to communicate what’s on the runway. “We’re coming out of a very difficult time in our collective history and designers and brands are working to figure out what fashion really means today. What I’m seeing across the board is a more diverse model adoption. There’s no longer a distinction between men and women and many brands are more fluid about what to wear.” And they are presenting a non-binary approach.
Bartlett describes a more comprehensive narrative of the development of representation in body types, but men’s clothing seems to have lagged behind.
However, fashion lovers and celebrities flocked to these cities to see collections from designers such as Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Burberry, Emilia Wickstead, Bottega Veneta and memorable shows from the likes of Moncler, Gucci and YSL.
New York Fashion Week (NYFW) took place from September 9-14 and unveiled a variety of styles from some classics such as slouchy styles, cargo pants, fringe and sequins.
NewFW star rapper Lee Nas X made his debut on the Coach runway in a leather vest and shorts accessorized with a small gold Coach clutch. His looks were unique and perfectly suited to his personality.
Following NYFW, London Fashion Week (LFW) starts on September 16th and ends on September 20th. With more than 100 designers showcasing their work at this event, a variety of styles were on display, but the most striking ones were ruffles and ruching, polka dots, 3-D floral patterns and metallics.
Immediately, Milan Fashion Week (MFW) took place from September 20-26 with more casual styles, such as shiny and leather materials, regular and large bags.
The most famous is the Gucci twin runway. Employing 68 sets of twins to come together on the catwalk to sport some of their best looks, Gucci brought innovation and excitement to the media.
As usual, Paris brings SS23 events to a close on Sept. 26-Oct. 4. Recurring themes were feathers, short skirts and cutouts. Ava Battinelli 26 said, “I really like how Chanel used tweed, I think it’s very underrated and I think the whole approach was unprecedented. She added, “I really like the over-the-top style. It makes the clothes more unique and shows that they are more than just fitting the model.
Bartlett highlights the designers’ diverse directions, from retro to futuristic, bohemian to architectural, and decorative to minimalist. “I want to reduce the use of more next-gen materials and leather as accessories are a big part of brands’ profits. The demand for leather is directly linked to the loss of the Amazon rainforest and is not a sustainable material, not to mention the cruelty of using animals for fashion,” said Bartlett.
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