Jonathan Anderson and his eponymous label JW Anderson is perhaps the most anticipated moment of Milan Fashion Week. Season after season, the legendary designer (who also heads LOEWE) finds new ways to defy the norm and throw a curveball hidden in plain sight. As you might have guessed by now, the Spring/Summer 2024 Menswear and Womenswear Resort 2024 collaborations were no different.
“We don’t have to be afraid of breaking down,” Anderson said last season. He did this by exploring a “very raw state of mind”, and the designer seems to have continued this ethos for SS24, and with his out-of-the-box collections for LOEWE.
Here, the designer keeps things bare with a chunky polo neck sweater and asymmetric cuboid shorts to reveal a silk-clad tight. Home staples such as bumper prints are reinterpreted as skirts and tank tops are cut in thick wool and pillowcases play on doll skirts.
But the intricacies hidden in the show made it a real hit with the show goers as the leather cars look like a leather case to protect the body without any motion or movement.
Instead, the movement came from unexpected places—shoes, especially mules, that looked like swaying palms every time the models took a step on the runway. One arm long, the other short, and metal circles glinting randomly on the top of the red sweater, motion detected. The movement was everywhere, evident in bumper tubes wrapped around disabled people, or sweaters made from interlaced multi-colored wool.
And then JW Anderson inspired us by proving that he is one of Great Britain’s best designers. His vision speaks volumes on the runway and works just as well IRL, which is what makes his runway collection so special – when you can imagine it being worn by anyone, anywhere.
While the collection evolves into some more adventurous moments, sporting frontal sweaters and others with knitted yarn balls, or avant-garde apron skirts and three-dimensional textured sweaters, it still looks incredibly wearable. And there is nothing easy about it.
Above all, Anderson stuck to what he knew, perfected it, perfected it, more precisely than before. Dresses with hidden pockets were reminiscent of past designs, as was a pajama-like woolen two-piece reminiscent of LOEWE’s simplicity.
As the saying goes, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” But the least you can do is learn from Anderson — instead, control him.
Check out JW Anderson SS24 in the gallery above and find Hypebeast’s Milan Fashion Week SS24 cover here.
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