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Photo-example: the cut; Photos: Getty Images
Who would you call if you wanted to announce your return to Paris Fashion Week after a two-year hiatus? Why, Brienne of Tarth, of course. That is to say. Game of Thrones Actress Gwendoline Christie struts the runway for Tom Brown at the majestic Opéra Garnier. All six-foot, three-inch actress, tent-sized gown with gold-trimmed couture silk, held the audience in awe. I would have given anything to see Janet Jackson’s face — the pop star was front and center — but I was too busy laughing at Christie’s fairytale-glamour shtick.
This was an absolutely hilarious Paris season, at its best and worst. And it’s not over yet: the spring-2023 collections have aired today with Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu. But, to sum it up, we’ve seen Demna’s mud show and the dubious joy of Coperny’s spray-on dress. Just think: one day you could get your tan and party wear at a salon near your deli. This week has made it unexpectedly clear, it is not an impossible dream.
Here there is a great eagerness among designers to benefit themselves from change, to be more open, more creative and happier. Indeed, the contrast between those who dominated the post-pandemic era and those who spluttered without a clue (Valentino, Givenchy, and Chloé, to name just three) is stark.
Thom Browne.
Photo: Getty Images
Brown has done clever approaches in the past, such as a film he shot in Utah with Lindsey Vonn skiing on his clothes while the rest of the set was filmed on the snow. But despite Brown’s wise-cracking glam aesthetic and sausage-dog bag, he doesn’t exactly let his hair down. Monday’s episode saw the Brown Crook through a Cinderella story with Christie’s help and then into an American-prom and country-club room, with pastel polka-dot dresses and coats, and bright-red or green swing dresses and tight sweaters (and Olivia Newton-John on the speakers ), before going into punk.
And he loosened his corset and let out a belly laugh. That was the change to Brown, not much for his beauty. The show also sparked a ritual for me: leaving the house. Near the end, some guys hold a make-believe convertible that pretends to drive a model down the runway. There was not one American graffiti moment, though. It was Paris, and she was on her way to Christie and the dancing girls in their fabulous costumes—to a new life.
Hermes.
Photo: Getty Images
Hermès has a train of lust for spring. Hermes? Unless whips and riding boots are your thing, you wouldn’t normally think of the Birkin House in body-hugging dresses drenched in mid-sunset hues. But womenswear designer Nadge Vanhy-Cybulski has cabin fever just like everyone else. Or as she put it, “I really wanted to celebrate being back outside and feeling the wind, heat and sweat on your skin. Vanhy-Cibulski envisioned a walk in the desert – hence her clever use of hiking materials like ropes and grommets (like details on trousers) and the giant sand dunes in the middle of her set. Semi-sheer dresses – some with zippers that can be partially opened – showcased her talent in a new way. Other designers will probably show more variations, two-piece black leather dress with a bare middle, mocking the ropes. Vanhy-Cybulski did it once and made it smoke between a horse and a scarf-print.
Stella McCartney.
Photo: Getty Images
Jerry Seinfeld and Jeff Koons were in Stella McCartney’s audience on the cobblestones in front of the Pompidou Center. Some of her baggy pants and skirts, tanks with chains and skinny pants, and jumpsuits are reminiscent of previous collections, but I guess the clothes are better made now. Watch it anyway. It was smart, no-frills Stella collection juiced with color and aimed at a woman more interested in cool English air than visual sharpness and trends.
Sakai.
Photo: Courtesy of Sakai
Another designer whose clothes have touched something new is Chitose Abe. Her Sakai collections often leave me cold; The shapes may seem pointlessly complicated. But I loved her when she paired black jackets (with cut-out open sleeves à la Early Comme des Garçons) with crisp white billowy-sleeve cotton shirts and mini skirts or skinny pants with embellished and glittery skirts. Military-inspired separates like a sleeveless suit with matching pants or a shoulder-cut khaki field jacket kept a balance of masculine function and feminine flair.
Sheiks.
Photo: Courtesy of Theyskens
“We want to do things the best way we can,” said Olivier Teskens in the studio’s courtyard, presenting stunning handmade dresses in fuzzy lamé and chiffon patches. “And we do it the way we want. If there’s something that doesn’t look good, we fix it. We don’t think the clothes are out of place.”
Heskens’s reluctance to fight for “position” in an industry that once offered him—by Rochas and Nina Ricci—is refreshing. Six people have made plaster dresses – if bias cut pieces of fabric are reassembled, dyed or treated and then applied directly to the body, the patterns and colors will produce more effective results. They remind you of stained glass windows in color and delicacy. Weisskens also created a beautiful black leather, with irregularly cut skins, and a new type, with a seam wrapped around the body. “I made a wedding dress for someone with that technique,” he told me. “It’s a way of evolution.”
You brought the brand to the Paris shows on Monday night. His brand is Yeezy, of course, but also chaos, Sunday hymn music, provocation, self-promotion of grievances and an ability to subvert producers and writers against their best judgment. Although the set took place over the past two months, the show was promoted as a “secret” event, according to Shayne Oliver, who worked with Yeezy’s studio. Call it a disturbance.
In fact, most people connected to the industry are curious about what could happen. They walk by faith. But for all its visual prowess and apparently good sense, you should have done better – on all fronts. He kept the audience there for two hours. Anna Wintour left an hour later, apparently for another engagement, and so did John Galliano. Before showing any clothes, he wore a “White Lives Matter” T-shirt – with no explanation as to why he was wearing it – and delivered a five-minute monologue about why he feels he doesn’t get enough respect. from the industry and that he is a “leader”.
And when many balding models finally appeared, you couldn’t see the puffy jackets and cut-out blouses. There was no runway lighting. Anyway, the clothes seem very similar to Yeezys’ past, which makes me want to see more of Oliver’s hand, the founder of Hood by Air.
As one guest rightly put it, if you’re going to cause a disturbance, it helps to get your stuff seen.
We are not at the end of this very special season. However, I’m giving the last word to Seinfeld. He and his wife, Jessica, went out with friends at a small comedy club here on Monday night. He was invited to the stage for an impromptu meeting.
“This makes no sense,” he said. “It’s not important. I’m not changing. I am safe in America. I’m here for fashion week. He cast a glance. “You don’t need a whole week.”
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