One of the great transformation tales is the story of her moving from the sea to the land, transforming into a body, and becoming sick above the surface of the water. The Little Mermaid— and the live-action remake of Disney’s classic hit theaters in 1989—perhaps a big hit for Louis Vuitton creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, with Venetian baroque balls, sea nymphs, and even Stanley Kubrick. Eyes wide shut, As it sails again for the brand’s Cruise 2024 show.
An ideal location this season is Isola Bella, a small, majestic island in the middle of Lake Maggiore in northern Italy that has been in the Bormeo family for centuries, complete with 10 gardens and a grand palace. Against the backdrop of the azure blue waters, the show takes over the entire island to tell the story of the land, the sea and the beautiful creatures.
Those familiar with Ghesquière will know that the designer has been a prolific user of neoprene and scuba materials for two decades, including his masterpieces for Balenciaga and numerous occasions during his time at Louis Vuitton. This season took it to the next level, with trompe l’œil water drops and shells on scuba tops, jackets and one-piece scuba swimsuits paired with linen opera coats.
The wonders of the sea are balanced with the delights of the earth in hypnotic fish scale dresses with cropped jackets and giant feathered feathers and metallic headdresses. Beautifully beaded dresses hang right over the body and resemble stained glass windows. Elsewhere, one of Ghesquière’s staples, color-blocked miniskirts, are layered, ruffled and gathered to perfection, never once losing their technical strength or fun. Paired with masking tapestry in a metallic finish, they look like lost relics from a Venetian ball, brought to the fore.
As the event progressed, tulle billowed from the sleeves and hips like waves. It reflects the raindrops falling on the island. The finale, with a rainbow, completes the transition from sea to land, with mermaid dresses draped in sheer silk and balconette bias tape, evoking Ariel herself emerging from the sea for the first time. For a moment, sea and land, hard and soft, man and animal come together to celebrate the island’s rich baroque history and join us in a powerfully romantic performance sure to delight Lewis fans. Vuitton – Or The Little Mermaid.
Kevin LeBlanc is a fashion contributor at ELLE magazine. He covers fashion news, trends and anything related to Robin Rihanna Fenty.