London menswear mastermind Martin Rose has reworked it. Taking to a community hall in North London, the designer proved to be one of the few to invite the glitterati of the UK fashion scene deep into the city for a show, as she did at PT Umo last season.
Such ability and influence is Rose’s nest. It takes a well-loved name to draw a crowd and as we entered the community hall – pints of Stella Artois and bags of Irish Tayto chips in hand – it became clear that we were celebrating London this is all a family affair. dear
More on that point, Rose’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was an Audi that makes London great. It brought people together on the power of community and awareness of the event’s attire. For SS24, that was a big London rave.
However, the codes were not clear. Look closer and you will find them, because in the hi-vis jacket (not worn with hi-vis pants, we add), the flower trimmed tank, the use of acid green on soft shirts. From silk nightgowns, and chrome psychedelia vibes on stretchy boyfriend shirts. The attitude was comfort and familiarity: Martin Rose, as you know and love him, returned to the designer’s hometown of London, Londoners, by Londoners only.
It has resulted in a lot of wearability. While many of the elements were bold, nothing was too far-fetched. Take, for example, a bright yellow bomber jacket topped with a beer-bottle cap and a Camden punk-rocker safety pin. This is paired with gray cropped jogging shorts featuring a varsity-look Martin Rose logo high top. Conversely, a casual faux-jacket with suede pockets was worn over a modest pair of straight-leg, light-blue-wash jeans, the latter of which were cinched to the cuffs. A particular standout for us was the red workwear jacket, cut from a strong and sturdy Cordura-like material but nipped in at the waist just enough to reveal the floral shirt underneath.
The Martin Rose SS24 was a perfect exercise in finding the balance between restraint and brutality. It’s the same ethos when it comes to shoes as the designer takes what you know.
For Hypebeast, this was Martin Rose at her best. But here’s what the designer herself had to say about how she followed PT to present her stunning show today:
Hypebeast: How was it after PT Umo?
Martin Rose: PT was such a mind-blowing experience on so many levels. This is a very prestigious forum and it was an honor to participate; I was out of my comfort zone – obviously – because I was performing in another city and I didn’t know how to convey those thoughts and feelings. [to Florence]. I have minimized how everything looks. I just went with him.
Since then, however, the response has been phenomenal. For those who haven’t seen or paid much attention to my shows or performances before, it probably raised my profile.
I am very happy to be back in London. Now I know I can go to other cities and ship there; Other cities are interesting but I will always be here [in London].
Because of this, did you approach SS24 differently?
PT felt like an experience where I was able to do this and create this… a very interesting experience. It was too Italian, too much for that city; I wanted to meet people and things like that to celebrate Italian culture.
When I came back to England I wanted a completely different feeling. It’s another city, closer in terms of location. There was closeness in Florence, but there was also distance.
It was great.
has been! And when I brought it back here, I wanted a different experience. Florence was a specific reference to Italian club culture and bringing it back to the UK is also a reference to club culture – but completely different. Also community.
In the UK there were special places to go to clubs – community centres, youth centres, ballrooms, all that sort of thing. I think it’s pretty low key, because it’s in a community center in Highgate. Community centers were once very British places. But as each wave of immigration came in, each community formed its own community center, Polish, Turkish, West Indian, African. Each community can be associated with a community center.
I would love to create this world for a minute. I want to attract people.
The connection between the community center and dance culture is clear – is this what you are ultimately looking for?
Yes. These places are very important for different things; For any community, they were used to serve the community. At one time, they were really important centers of culture, music culture.
How do these themes come into the collection?
I always have things that are circular. I’ve always been into music and club culture. There are things that people see and say, “Yeah, I get it.” But I wouldn’t say I designed it into place; You don’t see club wear.
So what was the look for SS24?
We took a lot of womenswear and cut it for menswear, a lot of feminine cuts, A-line cuts on menswear. Draping is explored through tailoring, which is traditionally, a women’s code. But it’s on the shoulders… there’s a sense of things being there.
I’m excited about the style. There is a sense of being pre-owned and pre-loved. A special sun-washed treatment of linen, classic summer clothes. Denim that wears well. Baseball caps are cut and damaged. It’s a lovely feeling.
Fashion is more gender fluid than ever. I guess it’s not where you intend to go, but how do you interpret it and how do you understand it?
I don’t care how people want to interpret my clothes. It is not for everyone, and it is for some. It’s as simple as that.
I love menswear and I love womenswear, and I love the tension of putting the two together. A man in women’s clothing is a promiscuous woman, a woman in men’s clothing is promiscuous.
Your collection they are. Very aphrodisiac – not aphrodisiac, but rather subverted, strange, confusing and sensual.
I love touch.
I like what it brings. It’s an attitude, isn’t it? I try to form an attitude that feels real; There is self-confidence in men who feel lust and self-confidence and are convincing in it. It’s not a costume, it’s a real idea.
Not being provocative after all!
is not Being provocative. I think it’s a really good idea. I ask a question there: is this possible, is this possible? I like people talking around it.
I like women in dresses, of course. And now there is a discussion of women wearing men’s clothes, but it is still a thought for women. [to] Strong and passionate.
These are the permanent features of the brand. How did you build for SS24?
There are some new silhouettes that I haven’t pushed before – A-line silhouettes feel very new to me. I hope it’s new and familiar.
And for the Nike Shox MR4 collaboration – how does it fit into the collection?
Well, it’s not paint splotches…it depends on the goalie’s gloves.
Everything comes from football. That’s about it.
Sportswear has always been a staple of my collections. It promotes street culture, youth culture, London culture. They are always a part of this fashion show. The MR4 is based on a smart shoe, which brings a smart shape to the trainer. That’s really it, and I can’t is not Have a coach now.
Martin Rose SS24 can be seen in the gallery above. Stay with Hypebeast until June for coverage of Milan and Paris Fashion Week.