New York Fashion Week: How Black Designers Stole the Show

New York – Thursday is marked New York Fashion Week (NYFW) Spring-Summer 2023. Apart from that The after parties of the storyreal life”The devil wears Prada” Moments and Celebrity Sightings, Events of the Week Series HIt has been canceled as a fashion staple. NYFW showcases the styles and looks that will dominate retail spaces in the coming months, and designers toil their way to the top to showcase their collections to buyers, press and fashion fans alike.

The official schedule kicks off on September 7 with Christian Siriano performing at Elizabeth Taylor’s former Townhouse and an appearance from pop icon Janet Jackson. Assisted by rapper Saucy Santana and “Me and You” singer Cassie, The Blonds closed out the week with a bang. NYFW’s commercialism, exclusivity and fandom can fool the human eye, but sometimes, there’s more to be desired. What’s not seen is the constant lack of plus-size models on the runway, the constant e-mailing and general weariness of the previous days, due to traveling from place to place.

But the stories the designers tell through their fashion lines and the emotions their clothes evoke keep me coming back season after season. When I was a teenager, I watched models walk from my laptop at New York Fashion Week. Of the seven shows I attended this season, some accounts tried to reinvent the proverbial wheel, while others seemed to miss the plot. However, the craftsmanship, atmosphere, and curated visuals from Felicia Noel, Sergio Hudson, and Jason Rembert were the highlights of my week. To me, it’s no surprise that black designers take the cake this season.

This season, Grenadian American designer Felicia Noel presented her “Wish You Were Here” collection. In 25 pieces, the Brooklyn-based designer showcases a variety of colors, from plum wine to chocolate brown to teal, and uses a variety of techniques from embroidery to fine floral embroidery.

Whimsical, romantic and feminine, Fe Noël’s spring-summer 2023 collection played with human emotions of softness, movement and dimension. Described in the show notes as “a duality in three parts”, the set attempted to capture “a sense of carelessness and confusion, of fear and caution” as it transitioned from muted to dark to light tones. In honor of the woman’s continuing journey of growth, Fe Noël’s structured jackets and pantyhose pair perfectly with feminine slip dresses and gowns. With an Airplane soundtrack featuring Louis Armstrong and Etta James, his enthusiasm for the aptly titled set is evident.

The final stunning piece was a 16-foot train coat dress titled “Dre$$.” Made from fake paper money, it represents the $1.6 million women are missing out on in retirement savings due to the wage gap. “Partnering with TIAA, our shared goal is to close the gap and end #inequalityforgoodretirement,” Noel wrote.

Collection 10 by Sergio Hudson was vibrant, sharp and sensual. Hudson is the king of Gaza and the Belt, having worked for both former First Lady Michelle Obama and Vice President Kamala Harris. His ability to transform a seemingly tired business suit into a spectacle is remarkable. A master of jewel tones, he incorporated eye-catching colors like terracotta, fuchsia and cobalt blue in this collection along with various black and white stripes and polka dot prints.

Hudson’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection is embellished with textures, incorporating velvet, suede and leather into various cuts and slits. The collection features 10 jumpsuits with peekaboo cuts, flattering silhouettes and sharp structure in the neckline – designed to empower women. “I wanted to do something elegant, bold and downright glamorous and sensual while still maintaining a clean and modern feel,” Hudson said in a press release. Interspersed with sequins, animal print and big hair, the show was an ode to drama at its best.

Following in her model mother’s footsteps, Aki Lee Simmons made her NYFW debut walking the show, alongside names like Winnie the Hallow, Leomi Anderson, Maria Borges and more. With fashion legends Misa Hylton and Bethan Hardison in the audience, there’s truly nothing like seeing a black southern designer’s vision come to life.

On the last day of NYFW, when I needed that extra push to get through it, the fashion gods saved the best for last. Held in the Georgia Room of the Freehand Hotel, stylist-turned-designer Jason Rembert presented a spectacular set filled with incredible construction and music. (We’d like more “if you make it” moments on the runway, please, and thank you.)

Rembert, the label’s current three-year-old leader. Alite, knows how to turn heads. His Spring-Summer 2023 collection was absolute beauty. The 30-piece collection ranges from muted greens to rosy pinks, bright turquoises and golden yellows; Jaw-dropping embroidery was one of the many highlights of the show, along with gorgeous feather dresses and tiered gowns. Upon entering, guests received a white flower, a perfect reference to the phrase “give someone the flower.”

In memory of his late mother Rembert He told Vogue “What I’ve realized in the last 15 or 20 years is that a lot of black women don’t know how dope they are.” Featuring a corset and floral accents along the neckline and various pieces on the shoulders, the collection is feminine yet playful. It was one of the few times I found myself completely speechless while watching the show and learning.