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Fashion and beauty
March 6, 2023 | 1:46 p.m
This season’s Paris Fashion Week creations were truly out of this world.
AP; Shutterstock; Getty Images
Robots, gardens and aliens – Paris has gone scientists.
Paris Fashion Week can always be counted on to bring the most beautiful and absurd designs to the runway, but this season’s creations were truly out of this world.
Apocalyptic technology was at the forefront of many of the fall collections—and it’s no surprise, given the recent scare over botched artificial intelligence software ChatGPT. Rick Owens sent models with creepy black alien eyes, Off-White dropped his Naomi Campbell-led walkers on the moon, and COMME des GARōNS recreated a big bang that seemed to include human lawn ornaments.
There were less obnoxious, but still technologically advanced shows as well. Anrealage created heat-sensitive clothing that changes colors under UV lights, while Copernicus partnered with Boston Dynamics to bring robots down runways with models.
Here’s the future?
Like boys
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The COMME des GARÇONS show at the American Cathedral in Paris was otherworldly — as set by the show’s music, like Ellen Allen’s “Dehumanization” — with models wearing garden gnome-like hair and a variety of futuristic textile origami.
Designer Rei Kawakubo told Vogue that recreating “the beginning of the world” was “the only thing to do.”
She thinks it would be good for the world if we went back to our original source and started over. To try not to show it again,” her husband added. “That’s basically what it feels like.”
Some haters on Instagram, however, were not impressed.
“This is stupid, not a fad,” wrote one, while others questioned whether the footage was real. Some even described the costumes as “Halloween” or “goofy.”
“Just no. Stop pretending this means anything,” added another. “That’s either stupid or maybe I’m just not creative enough.”
Rick Owens
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Rick Owens’ collection would be more surprising than the American designer’s usual avant-garde fare, but his “LUXOR” collection had an apocalyptic, sci-fi fever dream.
“We’re a year into the war and witness how honor in the face of violence inspires,” Owens wrote in his memoir of the all-caps show. “Such moments may call for reverent formality and politeness with sweet moments as a reminder of what is at stake and what is at stake.
Heliot Emil
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Sometimes it looks like the world is on fire, but Heliot-Emile set the models on fire for the show, which many have compared to the online “Hunger Games.”
“This brand owns the future of consumerism, like Sims on Mars,” says Brooklyn fashion blogger Hunter Shires.
Utility
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Still, photos can’t fully describe Anreage’s collection, which includes clothes that change color when exposed to UV light, revealing intricate patterns and designs. Models stand on stage in relatively light, but heat-sensitive clothes that change completely when the lights come on. The designer Kunihiko Morinaga told Vogue that the garment reacts similarly to sunlight.
LOEWE
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Many of LOEWE’s collections are printed on clothes, and designer Jonathan Anderson told Vogue that the “ghost” designs are like an optical illusion.
“Ultimately, I’m fascinated by the psychology of how we see things online. Motion blur seems to be a problem,” he said.
A look made out of feathers led to some mockery online. “Are we birds now?!” One of his enemies wrote about the feather. Others laughed at them for their “pirate boots” and “sheet” dresses.
“I can only imagine what my mum would say if I wore satin bedclothes to the supermarket,” one joked.
Chenpeng
Chinese designer Peng Chen debuted Chenpeng at Paris Fashion Week in an oversized, all-black collection that featured mostly clothes that looked like they were inflated like animal balloons made from garbage bags.
Off Co
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Showcasing his first collection since the tragic death of beloved designer Virgil Abloh, off-white Ibrahim Kamara cast his models on Mars-like red rock for his “Moon Presentation” show at the Tennis Club de Paris.
But they certainly weren’t wearing NASA spacesuits.
“If you’re a girl who likes to rap and is super cool, what do you wear in space?” He told the New York Times about his motivation.
There were a number of gaffes, some of which were emblazoned across one male model’s full face, tactical utility clothing and accessories, and even giant, strange-looking earrings.
Victor and Rolf
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Viktor and Rolf turned the PFW upside down, where the gown is fully fitted, rotated 90 degrees and moves next to the body – basically any angle rather than simply wearing it.
Online, one user joked, “Haute is tortured,” while another said, “I feel so sorry for these models.”
Gucci
Gucci went with last season’s “more is more” trend and opened the fall show in a chain bikini with minimal coverage, possibly a necklace.
Balenciaga
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After the brand Balenciaga’s BDSM scandal, designer Demna played it safe—perhaps a good idea after the uproar over child slavery and child pornography court documents.
It seems that the Georgian fashion designer, who has since apologized, does not want to stick his neck out. Instead, he covered the models’ necks with extreme, cartoonish circular shoulder pads.
And the brand seems to have learned from its mistakes. The comments on social media posts featuring the “unbreakable racing jacket” and “unbreakable puffer” are gone.
Saint Laurent.
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Saint Laurent also walked away with a heavy burden on his shoulders. Many crisp and tailored looks from Anthony Vaccarello were inspired by Melanie Griffiths and Sigourney Weaver in “Working Girl,” the designer told Vogue.
Stella McCartney
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Stella McCartney was tired of seeing “so much leather, fur and feathers” in fashion, she told the Guardian, so she put live horses on the runway to “show that you could show animals in a different way.”
“My clothes didn’t kill anything,” adds the designer.
Showing her “Horsepower” collection at France’s oldest riding school, Mange de Lacole Militaire, McCartney focused on sustainability with “cruelty-free creations.” The brand describes the collection as “made from 92% responsibly sourced materials” and “the most active winter offering ever.”
“Leather” items are made using plant-based leather alternative “MIRUM”, while bags are made from grapes, apples and mushrooms.
“Every time you eat an apple, you’re eating a handbag,” she said.
Covered
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They are robots. in order to Hot now.
Copernicus partnered with Boston Dynamics, an engineering and robotics company, to include robo-dogs in the show, which the designers called “a modern fable about the relationship between humans and technology.” The yellow “Spot” robots, like Lila Moss’s friends, acted as professional pursers, but also put on a show by kissing models and tugging at one of their dresses.
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