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PARIS (AP) — Valentino’s Paris fashion show on Sunday saw black cars swarming the ranks of celebrities, unable to find entrance amid the chaos.
Seated VIP guests huddled together in sweats in Le Marais’ Carreau du Temple venue, waiting for the event to start an hour late. Outside, cheering members of the public braved the rain for hours just for a glimpse of their favorite stars.
Such fever at ready-to-wear fashion shows in Paris is reminiscent of the French capital’s pre-pandemic fashion scene – and one more visible sign that the industry is reviving after the devastation caused by the coronavirus.
Here are some highlights from the Sunday-Summer 2023 collections in Paris:
The revelation of Valentino
Models wear creations from Valentino’s ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection, presented Sunday, Oct. 2, 2022, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)
Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer
A model wears a creation for Valentino’s ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection, presented Sunday, Oct. 2, 2022, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)
Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer
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“Cuts and transparencies reveal the man,” says designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s sparkling spring collection.
Models whose faces and necks were completely covered in disturbingly intertwined “V” make-up kicked off the show introducing the reveal theme.
The exploration of both inside-out and back-to-front continues on model Anna Cleveland with diaphanous pleats paired with matching nude pants over a beautiful nude skin-like top.
The coat had an ostrich feather protruding from the inside. The sides of some of the dresses were flared out, a gorgeous purple stitched floor-length dress that only showed the model’s flesh at the back.
However, at times it felt as if the acclaimed Italian designer tried to fit in too much. At Dress No. 91, it also felt exhausting – as fashion reporters tried to wrap up the show.
Valentino’s finale, which was broadcast live, was a real revelation of the event: the models didn’t even pass the usual seated guests, but cheered directly on to the crowd outside.
The art of the invitation
The art of whimsical banqueting is still an integral part of the Parisian luxury industry.
Small pieces of art sometimes give a hint of what the collection will contain; Other times, they’re just polite.
Balenciaga’s spring invitation was – inexplicably – a genuine used leather bag containing genuine French franc notes, a health insurance card, a photo of a pet cat and credit cards, as well as other spills. Countless videos of surprised guests opening their “invites” have surfaced on social media.
“But how do you know how to get to the show?” a fashion insider asked. he shouted.
Valentino’s invitation was a sleek black cube that opened with nothing but a QR code. Chanel’s was a card with Kristen Stewart’s face so big it wouldn’t fit through the mailbox.
Barbara Bui is smart.
Low-key French designer Barbara Bui is a good example of how the pandemic is affecting the fashion industry – for better or for worse.
Many homes have gone digital during the lockdowns, opting to screen a fashion film instead of hosting a show that has been banned for months. This spring’s Paris season – like Milan – the industry seems to have returned very much to pre-pandemic runways, yet Bui was one of the collections that continued in the fashion film format.
It’s a smart move: Small houses like the Bui have benefited from the new flexibility.
The collection’s spring video featured a pair of lovers in a French country house looking for each other and seemingly wearing each other’s clothes – a perfect theme for a joint fashion show.
The film’s use of light can range from the fluidity of a loose white tuxedo over his bare chest or a multi-colored foulard casually draped over a male model’s bare shoulders. A cobalt blue one-shoulder piece was worn by the male model with long bright red and androgynous nail polish.
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