Sustainable brands at Paris Fashion Week – WWD

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Sustainability may be the buzzword of the moment, but a handful of new brands and designers have built it into their young businesses.

“It shouldn’t be an argument or something to think about,” said Alphonse Maitrepierre. “It’s really criminal to launch a brand and not maintain sustainability, so it’s completely normal for us.” It made a show on the first day of fashion week, while other young, sustainable brands including Benjamin Benmoyal and Kevin Germanier showed runways throughout the week.

Here are seven promising products from throughout Paris Fashion Week.

International citizen

Berlin-based smart collection Canadian designer Annika Thibando combines sustainability and spirituality, with clothing that integrates chakra crystals into clothing. If it looks dull, it doesn’t read as it is, with delicate beading pulling the front of a pleated shirt, giving it an unexpected edge. It’s all about balance in the world of tibando, with dresses and jackets that look sharp but feel soft, while kimono-influenced jackets add more movement to the tops and sleeves.

Simple pieces are outlined with geometric lines, strategic cuts and unexpected shapes. Hidden pleat details in silk shirts add volume, and eight slits—another nod to the chakras—are an additional design detail that elevates a simple blazer.

Thibando is as precise about her method as she is about her technique. She uses recycled cellulose nylon, organic cotton and silk from reclaimed farms in her items, and is a full transparency advocate, listing the mills she works with and their certifications. “Maybe I’ll annoy them with all my questions, but I’ll go through a very difficult list.” She has her own requirements and points out that competitive certifications can be confusing. I would like to get as much information as possible down to the farms where they come from.

Tibando has a new development as it transitions its brand from direct-to-consumer to IRL retail. “Sustainability is an overused word. There has to be another way, a steady, incremental way. I don’t want to say it, say it, say it every year. I don’t want to be a trend. I think it’s incremental, slow growth, and healthy business flow.”

The collection also supports best sellers from season to season. “I think they have the ability to live long enough to create beautiful images and shapes.”

International Citizen Spring Winter 23 Paris Fashion Week

International Citizen Spring 2023

Courtesy international citizen

Nanushka

For Sandra Sandor, as she explained at a showroom appointment for Nanushka’s spring collection, the human touch is a small je ne sai quoi creation that “spirit shines through matter.”

Sandor continued to push in the gender-fluid direction, with an earthy palette that lived up to the low-waisted silhouette with touches of purple, blue or sherbet yellow.

All the wide offerings were woven in the woodblock print motifs of the Hungarian roots of the brand, but also textiles with an interesting hand, like a nubbly silk-viscose sweater that looks sophisticated, not to mention easy to maintain, update on raw linen.

As usual, the brand’s designs are driven by the desire to minimize the impact of their product. During this season, newly adapted leather pieces – mostly through menswear – were made from their house of Okobor alt-leather and backed with “renewed leather”, a material obtained by processing leather cuts.

And along with this desire to be rational in all things, CEO Peter Baldasti said the brand missed out on a more formal approach to lightening their burdens as they struggled to contain “horrendous supply chain delays” due to a combination of factors. Including the pandemic and geopolitical instability.

He remains cautious as fears of rising energy prices rise in Europe, particularly in Hungary, a country on the “wrong side of the Iron Curtain” with an energy system designed to plug the former Soviet Union system and thus skyrocketing. Dependence on Russian oil.

“I am preparing the company and the entire Vanguard Group. [brands] Be very careful. “We are not pessimistic, but it remains to be seen how much reasonable spending will change in the coming months,” he said, adding that the summer was “unbelievably good and successful.”

That said, the brand recently opened its first Chinese store in Shanghai, has an opening in the pipeline in Chengdu in the coming weeks, and is eyeing locations in Paris.

Nanushka Paris Presentation Spring Summer 23

Nanushka Spring 2023

Sincerely Nanushka

Meditate. Er

Design duo Alex Poe and Derek Cheng toy with ideas around masculinity in a subtly clashing collection this season. Classic college codes and Y2K Americana are added to traditional football team mascot motifs such as entwined mermen and dolphins on cut-out T-shirts in place of the usual aggressive fighter. Denim in this gender-fluid collection features skinny tops on jeans and skirts, reworked with a unique wheel and knit technique that adds volume and curves to the body.

The China-based brand has worked a lot on fabric development and sourcing waste fabrics and scraps from factories. The cotton scraps are reused by making them into thin strips, which are then hand-wrapped into sweaters, dresses and skirts with a dreamy knit. Elsewhere, there’s a bit of a competitive build, with hats in denim stripes or weighted skirts cut over trousers.

Cheng is still clear that the brand is not entirely sustainable, but points out that they have developed techniques to reuse waste fabrics. “We’re definitely trying to move this idea forward and we’re going to keep pushing it,” he said.

Ponder.er presentation of Paris Fashion Week 23

Ponder.er Spring 2023

Courtesy Ponder.er

Prototype

“There’s nothing new in the collection, ever,” co-founder Laura Beham said before her Fashion Week show. Proving that recycling isn’t just for clothes, Beham and coder Callum Pidgeon turned an apartment staircase into a runway. During the show, models walked up and down the hall on the show, with guests sitting on couches and brandishing Beham jeans.

“We like to take things and decode them where we can and turn them into other things,” Pigeon said. Read: Bed sheets. “My Little Pony” and Manchester United linens are given a second life as cocktail dresses and gowns, denim, tracks and bike shorts are all made into unexpected shapes and combinations based on the fabrics rather than the patterns.

The duo cut their teeth at Vetement, and their avant-garde aesthetic pokes fun at fashion’s pretentiousness. Colorful bodysuits with strategic cuts and broken doll features make sense to play “Barbie girl” in the background, but camera coats and sports joints have a great reach outside a certain circle.

To that end, the brand has developed “Proto Packs”, a concept of unique guides and sewing patterns that anyone without professional skills can recreate the look for more appropriate pieces.

Models on the catwalk ready to wear fashion week in Paris, Spring Winter 2023 Prototype fashion show

Examples of spring 2023

Valerio Mezzanotti / Courtesy Prototype

Christopher Hall

For the third collection, the young Austrian designer looked at luxury travel and comfortable comfort to create a collection of items with an elevated and relaxed feel. It elevates these staples with graphic prints that add an air of simple boldness.

Rumpf works with potato stock, scraps and recycled materials, including mesh. Soft shirts flow from the idea of ​​spending the day at the hotel pool, but tie around your waist for structure and adjustment.

Most interesting is Rumpf’s use of print. This season he worked with an AI program to create patterns around what he interprets as special emotions, which sounds like the future, but is very much now. But he combines these computerized sensibilities with his classic touch to create rich layers of color that transcend the ages. Body-hugging dresses take on new dimensions, while other prints work with soft silk dresses or thin dresses with drapes.

Poolside glam is reimagined in velvet, while loose cotton shirt dresses have become one of the young brand’s bestsellers.

Christoph Rumpf RTW Spring 2023

Christoph Rumpf RTW Spring 2023

Courtesy of Christoph Ramp

Sonia Carrasco

Sonia Carrasco created her collection “with the center of the woman”. The concept was the basis of her Paris Fashion Week show, which was part performance art and part presentation. The designer glued the skirts of the exposed floor tiles. Titled “Sex and Craft,” she wanted to sum up the whole process, show women at all levels, and show that what is considered sexist doesn’t contradict more conservative views.

Plaid pants were made with cropped jackets in full codes, denim was worn backwards and jackets were cut to focus on the chest, while skirts were in crisp white cotton. She works with macrame, which is carefully placed in the collection as a bridge between the two extremes.

The designer, who previously worked at Alexander McQueen and Celine, said of using sustainable fabrics, “There is no option B.” She has integrated that ethos into the brand from the start, first presented in Paris. “We have to work in a different way, and I want to show that it is possible to fashion in a very respectful and responsible way.” Fabrics are produced from stone, organic cotton and denim, as well as recycled materials.

Sonia Carrasco Paris Fashion Week presentation

Sonia Carrasco Spring 2023

Courtesy Sonia Carrasco

Ann Isabella

Ann Isabelle Rasmussen continues to navigate the ropes as her creative territory. The Berlin-based designer returns for her second Paris iteration with new spins on the Op-Art aesthetic, from artists Giulio Le Parc and Francisco Sobrino.

Rasmussen took a “somewhat edgy” approach to his wardrobe, continuing to use twists on denim and other fabrics with shapes that evoke today’s space-age nostalgia.

But it’s her knitwear that begs you to take a closer look. Not only is it sustainably produced using dead stock and GOTS certified materials, but Rasmussen has the ability to translate the concept of stripes into three-dimensional structures.

Case in point: when the stripes of a polo shirt start to fray around a series of buttons, turning the entire piece into a wearable version of Park’s kinetic art, or a Sobrino-esque frill at the neck that turns microstructures.



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