Lisa Birnbach once wrote, “The best fashion statement is not fashion.” But even the poet laureate of the Preppies recognizes that there is an unspoken dress code to follow.
Back in 1980, when The official preparation manual Printed, wardrobe must-haves include sporty fisherman’s sweaters, flannel-line khakis, and madras in the extreme. Thirty years later, when A real preparation Turns out, the rules have been updated to suit the times: “We don’t show up with T-shirt slogans.
For the year just beginning, designers are reviving, remixing and reinterpreting traditional American collegiate fashion for the increasingly nostalgic Tik Tok generation, and perhaps more than a few of their parents. Miu Miu’s spring collection features uber-cropped sweaters and elegant mini skirts. Tom Brown has dropped a football capsule collection for Notre Dame, where he is artist-in-residence for the 2022–3 academic year. In his last collection for Gucci, Alessandro Michele dressed the twins in white peaked jackets, classic blue oxford shirts and floppy ties.
And under coach Stuart Vevers, he ditched Arran’s sweaters, layered jackets in mismatched shades, and featured Nantucket red varsity jackets with leather shorts. Try to find That’s what he said. Combo at Murray’s Toggery. “I often go back to those college references because they’re unique to the American style,” Vevers said. “In a way, we all have a personal connection to them—even myself. I didn’t grow up in America, but with TV and movies, they’re ingrained in my mind.”
Although the “trad” style has never completely gone out of fashion – it’s always on the emotional palette at Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger – every generation finds a ready-to-wear version through the pop culture lens of its day: Ali McGraw in her belted camel coat. in love storyJames Spader white linen dress in Beautiful in pinkDylan Hundley’s prime gem entered Metropolitanand Leighton Mister’s extravagant headband collection in the original gossip girl.
Is it a coincidence that Campuscore is booming again? gossip girl Will 2.0 enjoy the second season of HBO Max?
“Absolutely not,” said Eric Daman, the series’ costume designer and early predecessor. “We are all in the same zeitgeist, so art imitating life is only art.”
In Michael Bloomberg–Times New York, Marc layered on brightly colored tight dresses by Marc Jacobs for his first take on Daman’s prep school uniforms. The show’s popularity turned him into a kingmaker: filling the resident queen bee with glittering Jennifer Behr headbands, he more or less started the trend for single-handed hair accessories.
Too much gossip girl Nightmare managed to escape the recession of the day. Today, some are in the air again, so Daman is returning to the well, this time wearing oversized varsity jackets at Saint Laurent and biker pants with Louis Vuitton bags for Julien Calloway, the new Upper East Side It girl at the fictional Constance Billard school.
“It’s not just twins and pearls,” he said. The new generation is taking that heritage and giving it a Gen Z twist. He even collaborated with Monsey designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia on a special piece for the recent finale.
For Kim, painting a prep school is easy. “To be honest, I find it very sexist,” she says. “When you’re really that age, you don’t have the budget to do the whole look. I always look forward to going back because I feel like I haven’t really gotten it out of my system.
This story will appear in the February 2023 issue City and Country. Register now